Newbie Well Owner

[SeanFraizer]

This is my first home with a well and since day one there has been a clicking/chattering sound coming from the pressure tank whenever the pump switches on. It is not the pressure switch (that clicks on once). I'm thinking it is the check valve installed before the pressure tank? I've purchased a new check valve, but the fittings are all extremely stuck. Before I start attacking them I was hoping to get the opinions of the experts on this forum.

Also, the pressure switch is reading roughly 4-5 PSI higher than the tank. I have drained the tank and measured an empty pressure of 38 PSI. The switch is supposed to cut in at 40. However, it is cutting in closer to 45 and cutting off at 65 (although the tank only reads 60) Any ideas? Bad switch, bad gauge? Should I adjust the cutoff on the switch or replace it? I'm fairly handy and would like to avoid calling in the pros if at all possible.

Any suggestions would be much appreciated!

 

[Wondering]

I would leave it at 45/65 with the 38 precharge. If your pump has a check valve on it, and pretty sure it does, you don't need another check valve on top. Just my opinion, but see what the others say because they know more than me about it. What size tank is yours? Hard to tell for me anyway from the picture.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[ThirdGenPump]

One of your gauges is off, either your tire pressure gauge or your pressure gauge. When the system is pressurized the gauge and the schrader valve should be the same pressure.

You'll probably get mixed opinions on the check valve. Understand a check valve at the pressure tank is redundant, it does nothing but make noise and cause water hammer on a properly working system. You could simply remove the insides on the check valve to rid yourself of the clattering.

I still use check valves at the pressure tank on some systems because it does help stop the system from cycling itself to death do to a leak left unchecked by oblivious owners. People who are mechanically inclined and will notice if their system is running all the time don't need them.

Things I don't like about your system.
The tank looks undersized for the pump. 22 gallon tank w/a 1.5 HP pump.
The pressure switch up on the wall. I prefer them on the tank tee, switch lines get plugged, a long switch line like that compounds the problem.
The tank is directly on the floor. It exasperates the base rusting out because it sits in condensation. It makes it a pain to change fittings and attack hoses. A couple cinder blocks adds 4 dollars to the installation.

If the tank is older than 2000 be very careful doing anything with it. Well-x-Trols prior to 2000 use a steel elbow on the bottom which can break if you torque it at all. The newer ones use a more reliable stainless steel elbow.

If that's the space you have to work with you may want to consider replacing the check valve with a cycle stop valve, it will allow you to keep the smaller tank and prevent you from killing the pump prematurely.

 

[Craigpump]

The chattering is most likely from the check valve, replacing it may or may not get rid of the chatter. The chattering won't do any harm to the system.

 

[SeanFraizer]

I would leave it at 45/65 with the 38 precharge. If your pump has a check valve on it, and pretty sure it does, you don't need another check valve on top. Just my opinion, but see what the others say because they know more than me about it. What size tank is yours? Hard to tell for me anyway from the picture.

44 gal.

 

[ThirdGenPump]

44 gal.

So it's a WX-250. I thought it was a WX-202. That's a little better on sizing.

 

[Reach4]

I would pull the cover off of the switch. During the chattering, is there arcing? Probably not, but it is easy to see in a darkened room.

I agree that you should check your air and water pressure gauges for a calibration difference.

corrected: And removing/disabling the check valve at the pump tank will be good.

 

[Craigpump]

Removing the check valve at the pump would NOT be good.

I understand the theory of no check valve at the tank, but I have never seen a contamination issue that could be directly related to the offset pipe/pitless adapter connection.

 

[Valveman]

I would pull the cover off of the switch. During the chattering, is there arcing? Probably not, but it is easy to see in a darkened room.

I agree that you should check your air and water pressure gauges for a calibration difference.

And removing/disabling the check valve at the pump will be good.

I am pretty sure Reach meant to say remove the check valve at the TANK.

 

[Valveman]

Removing the check valve at the pump would NOT be good.

I understand the theory of no check valve at the tank, but I have never seen a contamination issue that could be directly related to the offset pipe/pitless adapter connection.

Unless there is a big enough hole or crack in the underground pipe to draw in water and debris, the possibility to cause contamination is slight. But there is a high probability an extra check valve will cause water hammer.

 

[SeanFraizer]

One of your gauges is off, either your tire pressure gauge or your pressure gauge. When the system is pressurized the gauge and the schrader valve should be the same pressure.

You'll probably get mixed opinions on the check valve. Understand a check valve at the pressure tank is redundant, it does nothing but make noise and cause water hammer on a properly working system. You could simply remove the insides on the check valve to rid yourself of the clattering.

I still use check valves at the pressure tank on some systems because it does help stop the system from cycling itself to death do to a leak left unchecked by oblivious owners. People who are mechanically inclined and will notice if their system is running all the time don't need them.

Things I don't like about your system.
The tank looks undersized for the pump. 22 gallon tank w/a 1.5 HP pump.
The pressure switch up on the wall. I prefer them on the tank tee, switch lines get plugged, a long switch line like that compounds the problem.
The tank is directly on the floor. It exasperates the base rusting out because it sits in condensation. It makes it a pain to change fittings and attack hoses. A couple cinder blocks adds 4 dollars to the installation.

If the tank is older than 2000 be very careful doing anything with it. Well-x-Trols prior to 2000 use a steel elbow on the bottom which can break if you torque it at all. The newer ones use a more reliable stainless steel elbow.

If that's the space you have to work with you may want to consider replacing the check valve with a cycle stop valve, it will allow you to keep the smaller tank and prevent you from killing the pump prematurely.

Thanks for the suggestions. I measured the tank using two different gauges that were with .5 PSI of each other. Seems like the switch line might be the culprit.

I'm not sure of the tank age, but I might just leave the check valve be until the tank needs to be replaced. It is going to require a lot of torque to get that fitting off as the pipe dope around the fitting is hard as a rock and with my luck I would snap something.

 

[ThirdGenPump]

Thanks for the suggestions. I measured the tank using two different gauges that were with .5 PSI of each other. Seems like the switch line might be the culprit.

I'm not sure of the tank age, but I might just leave the check valve be until the tank needs to be replaced. It is going to require a lot of torque to get that fitting off as the pipe dope around the fitting is hard as a rock and with my luck I would snap something.

The manufacture date is either embossed into the Well-x-Trol sticker, last two digits are year, or it's on a seperate black sticker on the bottom ring.

If you heat it with a torch it will come apart a lot easier. Mostly it's about backing it up with another wrench so the force isn't on the tank tee.