I just bought a foreclosed house right next to my Mom in Michigan. I am attempting to dewinterize and give lots of "love" to this house that has not been maintained for nearly 50 years! I didn't like the house but seemed the thing to do.
I am an electrician by trade & an avid DIY'er. Most of the time successful if given enough time and plans!
After this house I may have to slit my wrists.
Situation: Pump will not turn off, dances between 29-31 psi. Local water is hard, iron, rust and runs thru black coal layer.
I have learned alot about shallow well jet pumps, pressure (bladder) tanks, pressure switches this week.
My Dad was a master electrician that really seemed to know anything about a house but he passed away last august. That's why I bought this beatup house next to my elderly Mom. It was well-built in 1940, solid foundation, good bones.
All electric and water was shut off in nov 2005 til feb 2006. I did not bother w/ a home inspection cause I figured what I could not judge myself was messed up anyway.
(Sorry for long message).
House revival plan...1st demo'd some walls & gutted mstr bath, cleaned forced air ducts well & have furnace running so now on water.
Turned off all shut off valves & capped open pipes. Detached shallow F & W, 3/4 hp shallow jet pump & newer 20 gal bladder pressure tank caused it seemed like the thing to do. While outdoors cleaning the tank of some rust buildup on backside I discovered a pinhole near top so junked it (?) and bought a 30 gal at local plumbing supply store (Not "Big Box" store).
Cleaned exterior of pump, bought new galvanized fittings for (T, Elbow & 2 nipples) from pump discharge to poly pipe to new tank (no drain valve for tank?).
Reassembled system as it was, primed pump ok but pump not turn off, but good water volume at kit sink & an outdoor faucet.
Then pressure switch started arcing, contacts bad so replaced w/ new. 30/50 switch, 28 pounds in empty new tank checked w/ a digital tire gauge.
I was calling the local plumbing supply daily for consulations. Have ruled out most things on troubleshoot charts.
I put heat (propane torch) twice at poly pipe to incoming pump nipple to ensure air tight on advice from plumb shop. Keeps prime. Installed new pressure gauge just for kicks. Pressure of 30 maintained in tank when off so no downstream leaks.
Now, I pulled pump again to clean ejector and check valve at bottom of poly pipe. (This system looks like a backwoods special to me. I expect to put in a new well & system in future and certainly won't drink the water til I send a sample to state lab).
Today I'll clean the ejector thoroughly, measure well bottom depth & static level, length of poly pipe suction line. Oh, and clean the check valve at very bottom of poly pipe. This suction line consists of 1 single run of poly pipe w/ check valve/backflow valve at very end. No add'l fittings...nothing fancy here. 20'-25' long but i'll measure today and blow it out w/ compressor to make sure it is clear.
I dropped 4 gal of ultra lemo bleach down open "casing" to well about 4 weeks ago. But once I get system runing I'll re shock chlorinate and let rest to all fixtures, flush bleach out, wait appropriate time then send in sample. IF I EVER GET IT RUNNING!!! I mean STOP running!
Today I have been researching how to clean a nozzle in ejector but no info. I've looked at exploded views of pumps and think it is deep within a white plastic narrow cone shaped piece in ejector.
I'm also wondering if I should expose the impeller since I have the pump readily accessible now. Think I will. What the hell...In for a penny....
I try to DIY anything I can...like my Dad. I saw a quote I realy liked this am at this website. Something like, "I don't call a part dead until I prove it to myself".
So, if I need a new pump after all, at least I learned alot this week so far and can use it later. Right!
It would be a drag if I don't have enough water in well.
End of part ...Maybe you need to take a bathroom break before you read the rest of story/situation.
Bye, Pam