Newbie from Utah needs some advice with 4" recessed lighting

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utahpaul

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Hi all, I just joined this great site today and I hope someone here can help. I want to add a 4" recessed can light to a "artist nitch" wall recessed area. The main problem is the recessed area has a arched top and when the house was being built this arch was made from 2x4s laid sideways with about 4" in between each block, then covered with drywall and plaster. I know these remodel 4" recessed lights normaly get pushed up and contact the dry wall to hold them up, but I will have to cut a 3"-4" hole thru the drywall and wood 2x4. Do you think I can just screw in the sides of the light housing to the wood to hold it up and tight to the drywall? As far as the wiring goes and heat from the fixture, above the arch is a air space of about a foot + 1/2 with a wooden cap, then the insulation is on the outside of this cap in the attic. Thanks for any help or advice
 
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Jadnashua

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I don't know the range of the clips that hold it in, but it may be more than you think. They are designed to fit in both a drywall and plaster ceiling...it might just fit. As to heat buildup, as long as you keep insullation away at least the minimum (and it sounds like you are), it shouldn't be a problem. The more asthetic problem is they are designed to fit up against a flat surface...you'll have a gap. My guess is that if the clips don't hold, if you predrilled some holes and inserted anchors you could get it locked in place.
 

Frenchie

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Remodel can clips won't fit that. They work by pushing against the backside of the drywall, you need a couple inches clear all around the fixture to get them snapped in. I know this because I've had to move holes for electricians, that were too close to a joist.

Pretty sure it's not okay to attach them with screws to the wood framing, either. The NEC's pretty clear about "if it isn't listed for use that way, you're not allowed to do it that way".

I'd think about using a smaller light, like the ones made for under cabinets & such. The problem with those, of course, is running the wire unobtrusively (you can't bury lampcord in the wall).
 

Mikey

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As Jim mentioned, I think your major problem is going to be matching a trimset to the curve of the arch. I'd look at fabricating a cylindrical tube of metal and trim it to be flush with the arch, with no "trim" showing -- you'd just see a hole. The tube would be fastened to and extend above the 2x4 arch structure, and be riveted to the light fixture. (You're basically extending the cylindrical portion of the light fixture.) I would ignore the fact that this particular mounting method isn't described and approved by the manufacturer -- they can't anticipate everything. As long as it's structurally sound and avoids heat problems it'll be safe. If you could find a 4" IC fixture, all the better. Main problem with this approach is that the light woun't be broadly dispersed.

You could, of course, put in a fake drywall "flat" ceiling above the arch and mount the light fixture in it, if you've got access to the space. Same problem with light dispersion.
 

TonyKarns

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3" air space

Keep in mind that any TC 4 inch light needs a 3" clearance around the can for heat to vent. They dont make a 4 inch IC (inner cooled) can that I am aware of. As far as using screws to hold the can in place it is allowed here in Wisconsin as long as the screws are going into wood. I did a 3/4" oak ceiling over 1 1/2" plaster and used 3 small flat head screws to hold the cans to to oak. I did have to pre-drill the holes in the cans so the screws counter sunk far enough to allow the trim kit to fit flush with the outer can. You can see what they look like on my website showing the oak ceilings I installed.
 

Mikey

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Halo and Elco and others make 4" IC (Insulation Contact) housings. Elco's EL99ICA is also AT (Airtight), which is rapidly becoming the preferred housing when mounting outside the conditioned envelope. It's about $16 street.
 

Mikey

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The Halo H99ICT is low voltage, the Elco EL99ICA is line voltage. Halo's is IC, but they don't make an IC/AT, as far as I can tell. I think they're overpriced anyway. Here's where I get 'em:
 
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