NEWB questions about new well - need advice

Discussion in 'Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog' started by starcraft, Feb 21, 2012.

  1. starcraft

    starcraft New Member

    Messages:
    1
    Location:
    Milford, Michigan
    Hello everyone,

    I have been going through the various threads getting information. But in the meantime, I have few NEWB questions about wells. In essence, I am building a new house (4 bed 3.5 bath (one of the beds/baths is an inlaw suite for my mom). Basement will have full bath later on when finally done. Would like to have enough irrigation to water about 1 to 1.5 acres Michigan climate (Lansing area). Irrigation would not run at the same time as people showering just like I do now. I checked local well records and typically wells are 105 ft deep with static waterlevel of about 55 ft.

    I contacted two well drilling companies and they have given me several quotes. I have been quoted the following (all are 103-105 ft dp):

    Company 1:

    1. 25 GPM 1.5 hp conventional pump with 85 gallon pressure tank - 5" dia. pvc well with PVC screen - 1 1/4" dia line

    2. 1.5 VFM with 20 gallon tank - 5" dia PVC well - 1 1/4" dia line

    3. 20 GPM 1.0 HP conventional pump with 85 gallon tank - 5" dia pvc well and screen - 1 1/4" dia. line

    Company 2:

    1. 1.5 hp conventional pump with 20 gallon pressure tank - 5" dia. pvc well with 4" stainless screen - 1" dia line - option to upgrade to 3/4 hp pump & 32 gallon tank or 1 hp pump & 62 gallon tank

    2. 1.5 VFM with 20 gallon tank - 5" dia PVC well with 4" stainless screen- 1 1/4" dia line

    __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

    My questions are as follows:

    1. Any benefit with a stainless screen over a PVC screen? - The stainless screen is 1 inch smaller than the well it is being threaded to.

    2. I roughed calculated my needs based on conventional calculators (including the losses, etc.) and I come up with about 20 to 25 GPM. Do you think this amount is reasonable/unreasonable based on my requirements?

    3. Does having a longer drop pipe better (one quote is 65 ft, the other is 80 ft).

    3. Is there anything I am missing?


    Note that I am currently reading the stickys about VFM's

    Any comments/redirect is appreciated - i am here to learn and I am looking forward for input!!
  2. valveman

    valveman Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    4,423
    Location:
    Lubbock, Texas
    Company 1, option 1.
    This is the old standard way of doing things. Pump and tank will last an average of 7 years worth of cycling on and off. Irrigation zones must all be 25 GPM, no smaller and no hose irrigation to keep the pump from cycling itself to death sooner. Pressure will always fluctuate between 40 to 60 PSI while using water in the house, which is annoying and keeps things like instant water heaters from working properly.

    Option 2.
    I assume you mean “VFD” type pump, which means it is variable speed. My opinion of these is that the installer just hasn’t been using them long enough to know that are not long lasting or reliable. If the installer has been using them longer, then they know they make a lot more profit off you, which doesn’t speak to the integrity of the company.

    Option 3.
    Just less water volume than option 1.

    Company 2, option 1.
    1.5 HP, 25 GPM pump should never be installed with only a 20 gallon tank! Doesn’t sound like an “upgrade” to go with a smaller ¾ or 1 HP pump?

    Option 2.
    Again VFD pump system means the installer is not very experienced or ethical.

    Question #1.
    Neither SS or PVC will rust, so they both last a long time. Don’t want to go with small diameter of either.

    Question #2.
    10 to 15 GPM is all that is needed for the house. Any flow rate higher than that is determined by the size of irrigation zones needed.

    Question #3.
    Depends on what the pumping level is. If the casing is large enough to use a flow inducer or shroud, the pump can be set at the bottom of the well. This is the best way to make sure you are getting the most you can from your well, especially during times of drought. Many people have to deepen the pump during hard times. If the pump is already at the bottom you wouldn’t have that concern.

    Since neither company mentioned a Cycle Stop Valve I assume they are both extremely far behind the technology available to them, or neither really wants your pump system to last a long time and be trouble free. Time for a quote from Company 3 and 4. Find a company that uses CSV’s and you will have found a reputable one to work with.

    Do a search for a CU301 on this site. The CU301 is just one of the VFD type controllers. You don’t want to be like the many people who got stuck with one of these and is now asking questions on how to get out of a bad situation.
  3. ballvalve

    ballvalve General Engineering Contractor

    Messages:
    3,261
    Location:
    northfork, california
    What were the relative costs quoted?
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