New water softener programming/setting.

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Tom Sawyer

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What difference does it make if Ditto does sell to distributers and not the end user? His information is still valid and from past experience it appears as though he has given an awful lot of useful and relevent advice. Not really sure where you get this whole anti DIY thing from. Maybe time to re-fill the meds LOL
 

ditttohead

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Water from a septic tank magically disappears... it does not ever re-enter the water supplies... LOL,

And considering the videos I have posted and the advice I give on this site, not sure where the anti-DIY comes from either. I am pro-proffessional, and I beleive not every project is a DIY item, especially if the people are not willing to invest in the necessary tools and time to do it right.

As to the "only place to get certification" huh??? WQA is one of many places that do certifications, it is also one of the most recognized. I am also Steam Boiler licensed, Contrator Licensed, a certified water specialist level VI, a certified installer, etc. Tom is a licensed contractor, so why are these certifications bad? All of these require continuing education in our specific field.

Anti-Clack??? LOL, I like Clack, Fleck, Autotrol, Kinetico, Culligan, etc. I appreicate Clacks move to get rid of their system from being sold by companies online that are bad. Unfrotunately, in order to get rid of the few bad apples, all of the online sales had to go. Kinetico, Culligan, etc have all done this for years.

I have to agree with Tom, get over to Walgreens quickly.
 

Gary Slusser

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Water from a septic tank magically disappears... it does not ever re-enter the water supplies... LOL,

It does not go directly into an "aquafier", if it did the septic system couldn't be able to be used. The drain field water goes through X feet of earth before it gets to the water table. If the water table is too high, a 'sand mound' type septic system is required to provide that X feet of depth or no normal on site septic system is allowed. The water table is not necessarily an "aquafier".

And considering the videos I have posted and the advice I give on this site, not sure where the anti-DIY comes from either. I am pro-proffessional, and I beleive not every project is a DIY item, especially if the people are not willing to invest in the necessary tools and time to do it right.

You're demonstrating quite the ego there!

I don't see you saying you are PRO DIYER. I can't recall ever seeing you say that you are PRO DIYER either. I have said for a couple years you are here more to serve the non internet, brick'n stick store type dealers, and there ya go saying just that. Thank you.

As to the "only place to get certification" huh???

Now there you go lying about what I asked you.... which was "Ditto.... is it true that about the only place to get any type of certification is the Water Quality Association?".

WQA is one of many places that do certifications, it is also one of the most recognized. I am also Steam Boiler licensed, Contrator Licensed, a certified water specialist level VI, a certified installer, etc. Tom is a licensed contractor, so why are these certifications bad? All of these require continuing education in our specific field.
A... we were talking residential....

Where have you seen me say certification is bad?

Certification is only required in a very few cities/states; you being from California, I have no doubt that you must have some of those others but I know you are not required to have WQA certification. Anyone going for WQA or more did so on their own and IMO usually do it for personal marketing purposes so they can dazzle local prospects.

In this case it's a DIYer forum... Usually DIYers that have had contact with local dealers say they haven't been impressed in a good way.

In this DIYer forum and thread, 311hemi, a rather handy DIYer, obviously wants to save money by using a softener to treat his water without adding an iron filter.

I doubt he will be doing anything illegal or harmful to himself, his family or anyone else if he does that yet, you and others have done your best to convince him not to do it. That begs my asking WHY when all he wants is to know if it can it be done and, it is not over his ability to program his softener to be able to accomplish his goal.

Anti-Clack??? LOL, I like Clack, Fleck, Autotrol, Kinetico, Culligan, etc. I appreicate Clacks move to get rid of their system from being sold by companies online that are bad. Unfrotunately, in order to get rid of the few bad apples, all of the online sales had to go. Kinetico, Culligan, etc have all done this for years.

Yes anti Clack valves. You are constantly saying Clack valve are good BUT... this'er that Fleck is a better valve. Last I looked at your company web site I couldn't find Clack valves being sold.

You must not be aware of Clack's contract that called for them to police their distributors if their dealers were not doing right by their customers. That included local and internet dealers.

I have to agree with Tom, get over to Walgreens quickly.
See and there you go again with the personal stuff.
 

311hemi

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3.6 rounded is 4, times 4 = 16 + 10 = 26 gpg compensated hardness. 3.6 * 4= 14.4 + 10= 24.4 rnd to 25. I'd use the 26. If I weren't concerned about fat in my diet, I'd leave a little on the steak but if I was, I'd take some of the steak with the fat trimming. Or, I wouldn't be eating steak. 2928 * 5 = 14,640 which = 15K. 15,000 / 26 = 576 gallons. 575 / 95 = 6 days (but that is not the 30 gals/per/day you mentioned) and I'd calendar override at day 5. IF you use 30 gals * 4= 120 * 26 = 3120 per day. 3120* 5 = 15600 = 16K, 16000 / 25 = 615 gals ad 615 / - 5 days and I'd override day 6. Now you should know how to do this manually instead of using my calculator. 16,000 / by 2500 grains lb salt efficiency = 6.4 lbs rnd to 7 lbs.

If you do this and have problems, remember the meter on your valve is not all that accurate and you should be using a more realistic volume of water like 60 gals/ person/day. And then do 2 manual regens (with the IO) with no water use between or during the 2 and do both of them at 23 lbs of salt (15lbs/cuft) so you regenerate all the resin bed. Then redo your programming based on the higher water usage.

Bringing this back up just to review.

Currently my system is set to everything I mentioned on the first page. It's a 1.5 cu/ft softener.
Kcap is currently at: 37000
Salt/regen:9 (I believe this means 6 lb/ft3, correct)
Day override:5

I recently looked at my water usage for the past 60 days, and I only had a small number of days above 100 gallons, with the max reaching 140 gallons one of those day. Either way, I am going to get my water tested again to see what things are looking like now that I have been up and running for 9 months or so. I don't think I have any issues going on.....but just more following up and wanting to understand what things I may change. I am putting in 1/4 cup of RO on top of every 40 lb of salt I fill into the tank. At every fill I am also doing a manual backwash with 1 cup RO diluted in 1/2 gallons of water.

When you say to possibly reprogram based on higher water usage, what does reprogramming specifically involve?

Based on water use of 60g/person, I would have a total of 240 gallons per day. With compensated hardness at 26, I get a total of 6240 grains/day.

6240x5 days= 31200k. Round that up to 32000k.
32000/26=1230 gallons
1230 gallons - 240 = 990 gallons (what do I do with this?)
32000k/3333=9.6 (what do I do with this? Do I set the dose per regen at 15)

Do I actually go into the valve and program:
k-cap: If so to what? (32000?)
Salt dose/regen: If so to what? (15 per regen)?
Day override: 5
any other actual settings I would change before doing the 2 manual regens as listed above?
 
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