New type k copper water service line - sweating?

[ngraziani]

Hi! I'm in the process of replacing the dreaded "Orangeburg" sewer line from my house to the main with Sched-40 PVC. That's not a problem. The problem is the line is directly beneath my water service line and in order to replace the sewer line, I need to remove the water line as well.

I've got a run of about 47' and will be using 3/4" type 'k' soft copper as the replacement.

My questions: what type of "joints" should I be using at either end and what type of flux and solder should I use? Can I use a MAPP-gas torch? What is "brazing"? As this pipe is underground, do I need any special fittings instead of couplers?

Thanks, in advance!

 

[ngraziani]

Anyone? Bueller? Bueller?

Sorry. Just looking for someone who knows.....

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Mike Swearingen]

Type K is the thickest copper pipe and should be used in your underground service.
Standard 3/4" copper couplings will fit all types (K, L and M) of copper pipe (the pipe thickness difference is on the inside diameter), and that's all that you need to connect with.
Use regular soldering flux and lead-free solder only for potable water supply lines.
You can use propane or MAPP gas either one, but just know that MAPP is hotter. Heat the fittings only, and not the pipe. Don't overheat the fitting, as that is the most common DIY mistake and causes the most leaks.
Heat the fitting just until the solder begins to bubble and then touch the lead-free solder around the edges of the fitting enough to let it pull in all around, and then wipe off the excess.
You don't need to braze anything for this copper pipe job. Soldering will be fine. Pressure test it before burying it.
Good luck!
Mike

 

[Clayton]

Water service

First off you should ask your plumbing inspector how to run the water service and sewer lines as they may not meet code installed so close together. What info I tell you will be according to IPC and may differ if you live in an area that uses a different code.

The code requires you to keep the water line 12" above the highest point in the sewer line unless it is 5' or further away from the sewer. There are exceptions to this code, but many inspectors still may not allow it.

One of the exception allows you to run the water line and sewer together in the same ditch since you are installing Sch. 40 DWV PVC sewer line., but check with the inspector...

What kind of joints or fittings you use at either end would depend on what you are connecting too. If you are connecting to copper coming out of the house i would use a standard solder coupling and the same on the other end if there is copper there also. If you are connecting directly to a water meter or curb stop then it depends what kind of meter fitting it has... flare, compression, IPT.

Should check with the inspector if you have to add any addtional shut off valves in your water service or if it is required to braze underground joints on the water service. Where I live, our meters are at the curb and we have to install a seperate valve box with a ball valve next to the meter box.

A mapp gas torch is good for soldering 3/4" copper. I use 100% lead free silver bearing solder or 95/5 lead free with a paste flux. The brand of solders, brazing rods, and fluxes I use are not generally available to the public but I would say they are comparable to Oatey lead free silver solder and No. 5 paste flux or No. 95 tinning flux.

http://www.oatey.com/apps/catalog/instance_assets/assets/Photo/Solder_Kit_50683.jpg

soldering video

http://www.oatey.com/apps/catalog/instance_assets/assets/Video/solder_7mb.wmv

brazing is pretty much the same as soldering, just at a higher temperature with a joining material with a higher melting point.

I always sleeve underground copper tubing in some cheap black 100psi. polyethylene tubing, soil conditions can corrode the copper pretty fast in my area.

good luck

 

[Mike Swearingen]

Now THERE is a pro answer. (I'm just a DIYer.)
Thanks, Clayton.
Mike