New system, HELP!!

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Smurtis

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Hello,
I've got a new well, 300' 40+gpm with water spec. at 6.8ph hardness at 96ppm turbidity at 15.1 ntu
chloride at 330 ppm? ( hard to read maybe 3.30ppm) Iron at 7.79 ppm with trace of hyd. sulfide.
I plan on using 2.5 cu ft. of Katalox lt. in a 13x54 tank with a fleck 5600 backwash head then to a
GE 40,000 gr. softner through my local big box store. ( want to maintain at least 9-10 GPM to house)
Questions, should I use a 4x20 filter after the KL, also should I use a chlorine injector to the KL, and if so can I
still use the fleck 5600??? I have a local plumber who wants to sell me a $6,000 systemo_O
 

Reach4

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With a 13 inch tank, you would want a backwash rate of 13.8 GPM to achieve 15 GPM/sq ft -- which you would want with warmer water. With colder water you could go less. Also note that your pump would need to be able to do that too.

The 5600 backwash is 7 GPM max, I think. A Fleck 7000 SXT would have more backwash ability.
 

Smurtis

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With a 13 inch tank, you would want a backwash rate of 13.8 GPM to achieve 15 GPM/sq ft -- which you would want with warmer water. With colder water you could go less. Also note that your pump would need to be able to do that too.

The 5600 backwash is 7 GPM max, I think. A Fleck 7000 SXT would have more backwash ability.
 

Smurtis

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Thanks, I have a 2hp constant pressure pump that's putting out@ 40gpm. ill look at the
fleck 7000sxt, do you think it would be a good idea to put a cartridge filter after the KL tank?
 

Reach4

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Thanks, I have a 2hp constant pressure pump that's putting out@ 40gpm. ill look at the
fleck 7000sxt, do you think it would be a good idea to put a cartridge filter after the KL tank?
I would. I like the Pentek 4.5 x 20 housings. Cartridges are readily available. While you are at it, you might put some boiler drains (which can mount a pressure gauge and can be used to sample water or draw un-softened water) before and after the cartridge filter.

I don't have a bypass around my cartridge filters. I keep a spare O-ring because if I had an O-ring fail while changing the cartridge, I would have a leaking unit until I got the O-ring. I actually have 3 housings in series, because I ordered those before deciding to get my backwashing iron+sulfur filter. I leave the first housing empty, although it did pick up a few flakes that settled into the water-filled housing. My cartridges are overkill. The second housing is a 50...5 micron element and the last is a 1 micron wound string filter. Use polypropylene, not celulose, elements on non-chlorinated water. You might not be able to put as much water as you want through a 1 micron filter. I think a filter element does help serve as quality control to see what is making it through the KL. http://www.discountfilterstore.com/...ed/20-x-4-1-2.html?size_advertised_filter453= has a nice finder system where you can select various things like GPM on the left. I expect those ratings are for new elements.

Use silicone grease (I have Molykote 111) lightly on O-rings. Never use Vaseline or other petroleum for that.

Your KL filter will not process iron quick enough to handle 20 GPM I suspect. Much of your water may not be going through your KL, but instead pass untreated to the yard. See the calculator http://watchwater.de/Backup/systems/kl_system.php and note the results are sensitive to flow rate.
 
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Smurtis

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I would. I like the Pentek 4.5 x 20 housings. Cartridges are readily available. While you are at it, you might put some boiler drains (which can mount a pressure gauge and can be used to sample water or draw un-softened water) before and after the cartridge filter.

I don't have a bypass around my cartridge filters. I keep a spare O-ring because if I had an O-ring fail while changing the cartridge, I would have a leaking unit until I got the O-ring. I actually have 3 housings in series, because I ordered those before deciding to get my backwashing iron+sulfur filter. I leave the first housing empty, although it did pick up a few flakes that settled into the water-filled housing. My cartridges are overkill. The second housing is a 50...5 micron element and the last is a 1 micron wound string filter. Use polypropylene, not celulose, elements on non-chlorinated water. You might not be able to put as much water as you want through a 1 micron filter. I think a filter element does help serve as quality control to see what is making it through the KL. http://www.discountfilterstore.com/...ed/20-x-4-1-2.html?size_advertised_filter453= has a nice finder system where you can select various things like GPM on the left. I expect those ratings are for new elements.

Use silicone grease (I have Molykote 111) lightly on O-rings. Never use Vaseline or other petroleum for that.

Your KL filter will not process iron quick enough to handle 20 GPM I suspect. Much of your water may not be going through your KL, but instead pass untreated to the yard. See the calculator http://www.watchwater.com/systems/kl_system.php and note the results are sensitive to flow rate.
Thanks, maybe looking at cutting the flo down
 
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