New Sterling Accord tub/surround install

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johnjfl

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Getting ready for new remodel had a question about mortar base. Do I put the mortar in piles directly on the wooden floor and then set tub directly on the mortar? or do I put plastic or tar paper on the wood put mortar on the tar paper then cover the mortar with something like plastic then set the tub?
Just wondering about mortar sticking to tub or floor in case I ever have to redo this?
 

Terry

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The Accord tub portion sets in flat to the floor. They come with a felt pad that goes under the tub. Sometimes I just use the felt.
If you forgo the felt pad, I would not put piles under the tub. You can use a thin spread, but not much.

Before the tub was set, we took some tile grout and spread a bit on the floor. The Sterling kit comes with a black felt pad, which makes for a quicker install, but we went for the grout, which when dries, feels like a rock underfoot.

accord_wild-05.jpg
 
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johnjfl

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Thanks Terry, I love this forum I have learned so much. I am concerned with getting the tub level, I know it has those metal clips to level top to the studs but I don't think the tub itself is supposed to be supported by these and I cant get access to be able to use shims. I don't have the tub yet (be here Saturday)so I don't know what the bottom looks like. I hope to be able to just use the felt pad but I don't think my floor will be level enough.
 

Terry

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If the floor isn't level, then using the clips to hold it to level, with grout or mortar underneath to support the tub, it will work.
You want the tub level so that the wall panels work with it.
 

johnjfl

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Ok, I'll know more when I actually get the tub test fit and will use as little mortar as possible. Do you ever have any problems pivoting the side panel in place on the valve side with the valve in place? The Delta valve I am using will be protruding the panel and will need a 3 1/2 inch hole to accommodate the valve and cover screws.
 

Terry

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Ok, I'll know more when I actually get the tub test fit and will use as little mortar as possible. Do you ever have any problems pivoting the side panel in place on the valve side with the valve in place? The Delta valve I am using will be protruding the panel and will need a 3 1/2 inch hole to accommodate the valve and cover screws.

It worked for us. The pivoting panel.



I notice that the Kohler video likes using mortar under the tub. The ones we've done with mortar over the years feel very solid.
 
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johnjfl

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Well the Accord tub and surround came Saturday and the back panel on the wall surround was cracked, 10 more days to get a replacement, Lowes said they have to reorder the entire kit, hope the next one is ok.
 

Jadnashua

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Most of the tub/shower valves have two methods of installations...solid wall (like with say a tiled enclosure), and flexible or thin wall enclosures. I'm not sure how flexible yours is, but I'd see if it would work out better to use the flexible wall installation method. WHen doing that, you leave the mudguard on the valve, and ensure that it is positioned so it just mates to the back wall of the enclosure. THen, when you install the trim, you sandwich things together resulting with the mud guard and the trim sandwiching the panel. With a solid wall, the hole is big enough for the mudguard to fit through. This ensures if you have a bit of flex in the panel, that you don't end up with a momentary gap and get water behind. The size of the hole required can differ depending on the wall material, so make sure you're looking at the desired section in the installation instructions for the method you need with the walls you have.
 

Vegas_sparky

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Was it as easy/hard as you thought it would be to install? How did the support underneath go? Looks like it all went together nice, and tight.
 
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