New softener setup advice

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N1one

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I recently bought a new house with a pretty defunct water softener and what I think is an aerator/filter. Both are labeled MacClean.
The aerator/filter leaks and the softener just doesn't do anything. No action when cycling even when plugged in so I turned the bypass valve and unplugged it. I am pricing out/investigating a new system and I'm thinking the filter might not be necessary based on what I have read. I have attached my water test report.
I am looking at the fleck 5600sxt setup ordered with all the tanks/media included since the price difference is only $100 or so and I don't know that the tanks I have will be compatible.

http://www.discountwatersofteners.com/fleck-5600-sxt-on-demand-40-000-grain-water-softener.html

Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Any certain type of media? Should I try to repair/replace the aerator/filter? I really don't know anything other than my internet research since I have had city water in my previous homes.

Thanks for any help

Nick

EPA 300.0 Fluoride (mg/L) < 0.3 - -
EPA 300.0 Chloride (mg/L) 53 - -
EPA 300.0 Nitrite-N (mg/L) < 0.5 - -
EPA 300.0 Nitrate-N (mg/L) < 1.0 - -
EPA 150.1 pH (range) 6.7 - -
SM 2340B Hardness (mg/L) 273 - -
SM 3111B Sodium (mg/L) < 20 - -
SM 3111B Iron (mg/L) 0.245 - -
SM 3111B Manganese (mg/L) 1.078 - X ********this is high**********
SM 3111B Copper (mg/L) < 0.200 - -
SM 3113B Lead (mg/L) < 0.005 - -
SM 3113B Arsenic (mg/L) < 0.005 - -
COLILERT Total Coliform Bacteria absent absent - -
COLILERT E. Coli Bacteria absent absent
 

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Bannerman

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The aerator/filter leaks and the softener just doesn't do anything. No action when cycling even when plugged in so I turned the bypass valve and unplugged it.

Was the softener plugged-in and on-line when you moved in? If not, did you simply plug it in and observe that it didn't do anything noticeable and then you unplugged and bypass it?
Is there salt in the softener's brine tank?

How old is the unit? Softeners, particularly those with Fleck, Clack or Autotrol valves, will often operate for decades with little to no repairs required but even if repairs are required, this is often limited to replacing some components included in a rebuild kit for that specific valve model.

Are you able to post some photos of your unit and also include a model number and any other info you may find?

A properly sized softener will typically regenerate once per week when provided electricity, water pressure and salt. Regeneration usually is set to occur at 2am when there is normally no water usage by occupants.

A softener is programmed to regenerate based upon the amount of softening resin contained, the hardness of the raw water and if it contains iron and/or manganese, the number of occupants in the home, average weekly water requirements and unusual water demands (including multi-head showers and other high volume appliances). Also taken into consideration is the water supply pressure and well & pump flow volume.

Since your water contains some iron, the softener resin will require some additional maintenance to reduce/eliminate iron deposits and fouling of the resin, with periodic application of Iron-out or similar into the brine tank prior to regeneration. I suspect the aeration system was intended to eliminate the iron prior to the softener.
 

Reach4

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Check http://www.qualitywaterassociates.com/sizing.php

You might want to go to a slightly larger size depending on how many people you will size for... "48000" is 1.5 cubic ft of resin, and "40000" is 1.25 cubic ft.

I would read about water heater anodes, and maybe consider flushing your water heater. Your water is a bit acidic, so it seems to me that the water heater could last longer with a good anode. Note that old anodes can be very hard to remove. They over-tighten at the factory, and a little corrosion added to that does not help. A big impact wrench is the tool of choice. I have a powered anode. When putting in a new anode, you don't need a lot torque.

For flushing, the drain faucet is 3/4 NPT thread. You could put a nipple instead of the faucet temporarily to give you a bigger flushing opening.
 

N1one

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Hi Bannerman
The softener valve/heads was plugged in and when I cycled it through the stages it would sputter here and there but mostly nothing. There was water in the brine tank. I actually had a water filter/softener expert come out and he said it was shot. I think he was pretty trustworthy and came with good recommendations.
The previous owner of the house was foreclosed on and he did NO maintenance repairs in at least 3-6 years. I called the company whose stickers were on it and they said they had serviced it once something in the area of 12 years ago. I think they said it was installed about 15 years ago. I'll get some model numbers when I get home but I think replacement might be easier than fixing it to find it breaks again in a year or 2.
My water expert quoted me $1200-1500 to repair the aerator/filter, replace the valve head on the softener and maybe the media on both.
I've done enough plumbing that I don't think the installation is over my head. (famous last words)

Size wise. We will be 4 person family shortly and we are pretty conservative with water. What I read suggested that the 40000 tank would be sufficient with the gpg of my water.

I'm eager to hear any opinions though. I really don't know too much.
 
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