New shutoff valve on toilet (polybutylene)

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice' started by rsmith99, Dec 22, 2010.

  1. rsmith99

    rsmith99 New Member

    Messages:
    109
    Location:
    Oklahoma
    I need some help!
    I am going to retile the bathroom and install a new toilet. The shutoff valve on the toilet needs to be replaced because it wont shut off.

    As you can see, I only have about 2" of PB sticking out of the wall. I have work with polybutylene and PEX. And I have a crimping tool. Problem is, if I convert from PB to PEX and then add a new valve, everything will stick out from the wall about 4-5 inches. Pretty ugly!

    Is there some other way to replace the valve without tearing a hole in the wall? Please be specific.

    Thanks!

    Attached Files:

  2. Gary Swart

    Gary Swart In the Trades

    Messages:
    7,360
    Location:
    Yakima WA
    You can use a 1/4 turn stop valve with a Shark-Bite connection to the pipe. These 1/4 turn valves are very popular for shut offs because these valves should always either be fully off or fully on.
  3. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,835
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    1. You can remove the valve, nut, and sleeve and install a new compression valve
    2. If the looks of the nut is not objectionable, you can just remove the valve and use the nut to secure the new valve
    3. You can use one of the "push on" valves, not the same as a Sharkbite.
    4. You can use valve with sharkbite connection
  4. rsmith99

    rsmith99 New Member

    Messages:
    109
    Location:
    Oklahoma
    Replace valve

    The compression ring and internal sleeve seem to be hard to find.
    The ones I have removed have a plastic compression ring and a stainless steel sleeve.
    The PB is a larger diameter than PVC inside.
  5. Basement_Lurker

    Basement_Lurker One who lurks

    Messages:
    668
    Location:
    Victoria, BC
    Gary's sharkbite ball valve seems to be the idea solution for you. The sharkbite connection will have a built in internal stiffner...which is exactly what you need for this situation. Just be gentle cutting off the old valve as PB can be brittle.
  6. rsmith99

    rsmith99 New Member

    Messages:
    109
    Location:
    Oklahoma
    Compression fitting on Polybutylene - Will pipe dope help?

    I am getting rady to replace the shutoff valve on an old toilet.

    My house has Polybutylene. I am replacing the existing compression fitting with a new compression fitting.

    My question is, should I use pipe dope around the compression ring? Will it help it seal or not?

    Thanks!
    Ron

    Attached Files:

    • poly.jpg
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  7. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    22,153
    Location:
    New England
    No pipe dope! You might put a drop of oil on the threads, but it is not needed. Sometimes the threads are pretty nasty (especially stuff made in China), and it makes it easier to cinch up. It's not required, though.
  8. rsmith99

    rsmith99 New Member

    Messages:
    109
    Location:
    Oklahoma
    I am trying to decide if I want to use the compression fitting on the PB or use an adapter to PEX or use an adapter from PB to PEX and connect to copper with a PEX adapter.
    I am trying to get to the best solution if anything needs to be done down the road. Having copper coming out of the wall seems more solid. And everybody makes compression fittings for copper.
    I don't like the looks of PEX coming out of the wall.
    So here is a photo from the other side of the wall showing where the PB is coming out of the wall. The PB comes out of the floor, so I only have about 3" of PB to work with from the floor to the elbow.
    From the elbow to the wall is about 4". (6" wall)
    For stability, it seems eliminating the elbow and making an L shaped copper connection coming from the floor would be strongest. Just have to hope it works the first time.

    Any suggestions would be appreciated.

    Attached Files:

    • pb.jpg
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  9. rsmith99

    rsmith99 New Member

    Messages:
    109
    Location:
    Oklahoma
    Any suggestions?
  10. cacher_chick

    cacher_chick Test, Don't Guess!

    Messages:
    3,249
    Location:
    Land of Cheese
    You have never mentioned if you are on a slab or have a crawlspace or basement. With the latter 2, you could make the transition anywhere you needed to. If you are on a slab (PB under a slab??) you are a bit more limited.
  11. rsmith99

    rsmith99 New Member

    Messages:
    109
    Location:
    Oklahoma
    Concrete slab. That's the reason for the concern and the questions.
  12. cacher_chick

    cacher_chick Test, Don't Guess!

    Messages:
    3,249
    Location:
    Land of Cheese
    I would try the compression fitting on the PB and not worry about going further unless it does not work.
  13. rsmith99

    rsmith99 New Member

    Messages:
    109
    Location:
    Oklahoma
    Installed the cmpression fitting. Worked first time. No leaks.
    Just a note about the compression fittings. The ferrell and plastic ring I used were given to me by a plumber about 15 years ago. They fit perfectly. I found what was supposed to be replacements for these parts in two local supply houses. Neither of the replacment ferrells were the same wall thickness or outside diamemter. The ferrells were loose inside the PB. The old ferrell was a close fit. I don't think the replacement would have worked. I don't think the new ferrells are actually made to fit PB.

    Now it's off to bust out tile.
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