New home to me - Problems with Autotrol softener - salty water

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Will G

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Hi everyone. I just bought my first home and I'm having some trouble with the water softener. The water out of my faucets is very salty tasting. I also noticed when washing my car that the water is leaving a whiteish residue as it dries on the car from the sun.

I have the Autotrol 460i. The hardness is currently set at 10 (not sure if this setting is correct, I don't know the hardness of the water and will need to test). The capacity is set at 48. The time is set correctly. I set the calendar override to 5 days, it was set at 0.

Last night I tried to take out of the injector and screen, but the injector was giving me some trouble getting it out so I left it. I ordered a new injector and screen just in case. I also cleaned the drain tube, but didn't notice anything weird coming out of it, seemed fairly clean.

After I did all of this, the softener regenerated. Then over the next 3 hours, it regenerated 2 more times. I would assume this has something to do with my salty tasting water.

Can anyone help? I attached 2 pictures.
 

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Reach4

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Your softener controller has a problem, which you know. The slow rinse and fast rinse should wash out the regeneration salt. When you say "After I did all of this, the softener regenerated. Then over the next 3 hours, it regenerated 2 more times" I infer that the regens happened on their own. Another problem.

While you could try rebuilding the unit (http://www.softenerparts.com/Autotrol_Repair_Parts_s/2.htm) you might want to consider replacing the controller. That will probably not be a drop-in replacement. One thing to consider is that the Autotrol units have their inputs on the opposite side of Fleck and most others. Those Autotrol units are often available in the used market after somebody replaces rather than repairs. The used controller might have flaws. But if you have lots of time, it could be worth messing with.

If you have a leaky flapper, sometimes you can squeeze extra life out by reversing each flapper. That extra-regen thing is a symptom that I have not read about. I have an old Autotrol that I have fixed with used parts I bought from somebody who tried to fix his but decided to replace when his repair efforts did not fix his symptom. I thought I would just use the timer, but I decided to try his valve body. I swapped out the injector since they were different color-coded values. When I had bought the house, the non-electronic clock would not do a regen. I had to trigger a regen manually. Plus the unit sang loudly during regens. Now it works on schedule, and I hear no singing.

If I later replace the controller, it will be an demand Fleck 5600SXT or 7000SXT controller. But then do I want to swap out the resin? Will I want to get a bigger tank? At some point is is cheaper to buy all new than to buy pieces.
 

Will G

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I'd like to try and exhaust my "maintenance" DIY efforts before I go about replacing the expensive stuff. Money is tight and all while we setup the new house, you know?

Is it possible the tank could need to be cleaned out, maybe some sludge sitting at the bottom?
 

Reach4

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I don't see how that sludge in the tank would account for either of the two symptoms you described:
1. salty water from the tap
2. regenerating on its own.

What sludge do you see in the controller? Red iron, or what?

Regarding regenerating on its own, I think you could unplug the timer between regens to prevent automatic regens, and regenerate manually when needed. To do that, push the red button in, and turn a bit CCW.

Have you read rebuilding info? https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=rebuilding autotrol 255

Before getting inside, get some silicone grease. Lightly grease any O-rings you handle. Inspect for damage, and consider reusing those that look OK under magnification. Clean elsewhere.

Do you have the manual? Do you understand the diagrams? Does the water and ball under the clear cover behave correctly? Correct is that before starting, the clear housing is full of water and the ball floats high. When you start brine and rinse, the water level drops some as brine is being drawn. When the brine is down to the entrance of the suction tube in the brine tank, the tube sucks air. The water level falls until the ball drops and plugs the path. The remainder of the brine and rinse cycle is just water flowing slowly through the tank and then out of the drain. The drain water should taste progressively less salty as the cycle continues.


The ball stays down until brine refill, which is the last stage before going back into service.

I would clean and lube. Note that you can move right to the phase that you want to test by pushing in the red button and turning the redbutton and /or the camshaft in the correct direction (which is CCW when viewed from the front.
 
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Will G

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I don't see how that sludge in the tank would account for either of the two symptoms you described:
1. salty water from the tap
2. regenerating on its own.

What sludge do you see in the controller? Red iron, or what?

Regarding regenerating on its own, I think you could unplug the timer, and regenerate manually. To do that, push the red button in, and turn a bit CCW.

Have you read rebuilding info? https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=rebuilding autotrol 255

Before getting inside, get some silicone grease. Lightly grease any O-rings you handle. Inspect for damage, and consider reusing those that look OK under magnification. Clean elsewhere.

Do you have the manual? Do you understand the diagrams? Does the water and ball under the clear cover behave correctly? Correct is that before starting, the clear housing is full of water and the ball floats high. When you start brine and rinse, the water level drops some as brine is being drawn. When the brine is down to the entrance of the suction tube in the brine tank, the tube sucks air. The water level falls until the ball drops and plugs the path. The remainder of the brine and rinse cycle is just water flowing slowly through the tank and then out of the drain. The drain water should taste progressively less salty as the cycle continues.


The ball stays down until brine refill, which is the last stage before going back into service.

I would clean and lube. Note that you can move right to the phase that you want to test by pushing in the red button and turning the redbutton and /or the camshaft in the correct direction (which is CCW when viewed from the front.

I don't see a red button? Is that the black dial on the front of my unit?

I do know that the ball does float high, I will have to check and see what it does during brine and rinse.
 
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