New Bathroom...Installing Wall over Shower Faucet

[Bjferri]

Can someone please tell me the proper wall thickness including tile that has to be installed over the shower/tub single handle faucet?

This is what I have so far: All plumbing is completed. Plumber left the plaster gound over the valve. The wall is open.

I need to install the wall/tile, escutcheon, handle, etc.

What I'm confused about is wall/tile thickness. With the plaster ground being used as a guide for wall thickness am I supposed to make sure the wall/tile is flushed with plaster ground? What if I didn't want the wall that thick? What if I wanted it 1/4 " thinner and the plaster ground is sticking out?

I know I’m making this harder than it is!

Any suggestions?

 

[Jimbo]

You are working backwards. You should determine what you are going to do for the wall..i.e. backerboard + tile, etc. This then tells you exactly where to mount the valve.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[hj]

faucet

The plaster ground is to tell you where to set the faucet, not how thick to make the wall.

 

[Bjferri]

Thanks. So now that the faucet is in place I can throw the plaster ground out? Does it matter at this point how thick the wall is I put up? 3/4 inch or 1 inch or anywhere in between?

 

[Jadnashua]

First, leave the plaster guard on until you are ready to put the trim on...it helps prevent getting crud into the screws, fittings, etc. Your wall needs to allow that guard to just fit inside of the wall or the trim won't cover the hole, or you won't be able to service the valve when the time comes. There are usually some min/max lines on the guard. If your finished wall does not fall between those lines (and on some, there is very little tollerance!), then your trim won't fit.

If your desired wall thickness falls between the min/max lines, you're golden, if not, then you need to either change how you build the wall or have the valve moved so it does. There are sometimes extension kits available (often pricey), but not always, if the valve is too far inside, but nothing will fix it except moving it if it is too far out.

 

[Bjferri]

Thanks. I think I understand. I think the way the plumber installed the valve I'd have to build that wall out 1 1/4 inches to make it flushed with the plaster guard. I can do that but I'd rather not. I plan on doing a 3/4 inch wall which will make the plaster guard stick out from the wall by 1/2 inch. Will this be a problem?

The settings on the plaster guard is thin wall and thick wall application. I would think anywhere in between thick and thin I would be golden?

 

[Jadnashua]

As long as your finished wall is between the min/max, you should be fine. the screws will reach and the finished part of the trim will cover all sections of the valve that are supposed to be covered. Typically, but not always, if your finished wall is flush with the guard, that is the deepest the wall can be. In this, you must read the instructions, or you'll have problems. if the plumber didn't leave you the instructions, try to get a copy from the manufacturer...it is much easier now while the thing is not discontinued. It will show the installation, parts, and repair info you may need 10-20 years from now (and while finishing the installation!).

 

[Bjferri]

Thanks again. I have all the paperwork but the instructions are a little confusing. Now I have a better understanding.

Thanks again!

 

[Bjferri]

That's a great point. I'm putting up 1/2 inch green board with swanstone wall cover. As much as I love working with tile, I don't want grout. I think the thickness is 1/4 inch.