Need your input. Noble TS - drop down shower

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01sesedan

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Hello everyone,

Been working on this bathroom for many months now .

Ready to install noble ts. Dry fitting and need your input on the drop down/step down section. Was able to make all the bends/folds, looks good so far.

Should I use both inside and outside pre-formed corners?

Here's what it looks like.

Thanks for your input.....
 
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JohnfrWhipple

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I prefer a folded inside corner and the outside dam corner for that detail.

I also prefer the CIS membrane over TS so that you do not have the dark blue seaming sections.
 

ShowerDude

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I would only use the dom corner.. the black ones. I too prefer folds vs cuts......

since you are working on top of your cbu with a full topical approach you will need to watch the corner/material lap buildup closely, thinking fwd for tile setting.

more importantly.....make sure you have a pitch at drop in entry where your curb would be....

in the corner detail of your pic it "looks like " or appears you DO not have proper pitch...but i am looking at this on an iphone......be sure of grade and pitch before moving fwd , your drop entry should pitch just like a curb would, at least for 6 -12 inches outside the shower enttry towards the pan.... often times ill over pitch/grade this area to compensate for material buildup.



cool project....good luck
 

01sesedan

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Thanks for the feedback.

Redshoe - you're correct. No pitch on the floor before entering the shower. Going to work on that today.

What thin set have you guys used to bond/adhere the membrane?

I've only been able to locate Mapei (flooring supply warehouse), and Lowes. Custom products from HD.

Going to the warehouse to see what they have in stock now. Last time I was there (months ago,) they had Ultraflex 1 and others I don't remember now. Hope that's good for the membrane and porcelain tile.

Tile that will be installed is 12x24, through body, rectified, porcelain, 10mm thick.
 

JohnfrWhipple

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I would avoid VersaBond and make sure you check the date codes on any material you buy for your project.
 
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ShowerDude

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01 sesadan,

i have set NOBLE TS with CBP speed set and pro lite, many many times.

i prefer laticrete 254R ......all 3 meet spec for this .

if you use TEC look for superflex.

maybe share some progress updates with us if you care to....
 

01sesedan

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Good to know other options are available.

If a capillary break is installed, I'll have to install the floor tile with 24" side facing the shower. 12" side face the toilet. Install the break at 12" to use a full tile before drop down.

Planning on 1/8" pitch, do you think that will be enough? Glass shower door will be installed.

Thanks again..

Happy New Year to everyone.
 

ShowerDude

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go ahead and pull up that TS and show us a pic of your pan/drain and floor .


you need 1/4" or 2% for pan.

if you back pitch your threshold/floor area grind it down to pitch into pan area.... minimum say 10 inches out and 3/16 pitch . add cappilary

waterproof and flood test


we need to see more pics details to help
 
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01sesedan

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After the first pour cured, a mud pan was poured with Noble flashing drain tool. Bought a concrete grinding cup today, hope to start tomorrow evening.

At this time, the shower is 2" lower.
 
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01sesedan

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Finally got time to work on the pitch/slope 6" from drop. The rest of the floor is not level/flat, lots of high and low spots. Tried my best to make it uniform. Going to need to pour self leveling concrete.

Which do you guys recommend?

Used the grinder and 24 grit stone. Had to go easy with the grinder with cup. It could remove too much if not paying attention. Took me some time to get the hand of it.

Thanks for your input. Really appreciate it.
 
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ShowerDude

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saw that coming. the grading would have happened at the pour stage.......its very hard to get right for a diy.

now you need to back up.

here is a quick option.

place a level ledger board at drop down. and another ledger 12" out (but line raised a 3/16-1/4 ......pour the self leveler to create the 2 sections in one pour ....you may need to block the gap at some point... after it all sets you can go back and skim a meduum bed thin set to create your pitch evenly with both planes and further fine tune with rubbing brick.

?? make sense?


FIRST

clean and re clean your unlevel floor. then clean again.

i use latex bonding adhesive and if you have to go to a bigbox store use CBP RS self leveler.

this will level your floor but is not a screed or pitchable mortar.

after your floor is level i n 2 planes youll create a level even grade under your TS install...
 
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01sesedan

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Making some very slow progress.

Before getting start we cleaned the floor many times. The first pass, we removed some small dried up compound spots, specks of wall sealer. Rubbed it with grind stone, scratched it with sharp utility knife, sweep, vacuum, passed a damp sponge multiple times.

Returned a few days later to repeat the process and found small dark spots in some parts oc the concrete floor. Seems they're small pieces of wood. Must have fallen in the concrete when poured. Crazy stuff never seen this before.
Last week I picked up some Ardex Feather Finish. Cleaned the floor with vacuum for the last time. Rubbed my hand across the surface and vacuumed all tiny particles.

Then 12" from the drop down, I placed a 1/4" thick by 1.5 wide strip to use as a guide. Wall to wall.

Applied feather finish in 3 parts. First application was 12" from drop down made a slope. Second, used the rest of the material to fill in the low spots in the rest of the floor. Third, blended in the slope to the dry area.
 
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ShowerDude

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Nice! take your time, elongated curing times welcomed mostly!
you can continue to fine tune this with skims of thinset.

so youve corrected your back pitch, youre using nobleseal ts and you are going to fold your corners and use dom corners?

whats your next step? drain divot? bigger plan?
 

01sesedan

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Just finished cleaning shower floor many times. Prepping drain flange, TS and outside corners.

Called Noble last week, spoke with Richard, asked about drop down corners. He said to install the outside corner first because thin set will not stick to if installed above TS. I'm planning to use 150.

I'm planning to use lap corner method. Use 150 for that also.

For Noble TS installation, I'm going to use Mapei Ultraflex 2. Going to read up on mixing it correctly, don't want to use too much water.

As for drop down and wall corners, I wasn't sure if pro-formed inside corners should also be used. What do you guys think? Will the buildup be too much?
 
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01sesedan

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That noblesealeant 150 is serious business. I had a regular caulking gun, boy was it tough to squeeze. Read somewhere to use commercial gun. HD doesn't have anything like that. Will continue looking.

It sticks to everything. Clean up was easy with WD 40.
 
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ShowerDude

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build up in your topical approach is a concern.

what size tile are using, if a 12x12 or larger you have options to float out to compensate for buildup.

smaller tile gets harder, tiny mosAic and youre in a pickle.

start planning on some sort of tension/pressure method to hold your TS and corners in place as you set everything. this will be crucial for your buildup and adhesion to walls.

i use plywood sticks and 1" ridgid foam to tension things to the wall As it sets up!

youre in good hands w richard. cant wait to see how it comes together....

way to take youre time and get the details right.
a flood test is in order!
 

01sesedan

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Lets see how it turns out. Hope its not too much build up..

Going to use 12x24 tile. 10mm thick. Mosaic made from the same tile as a band around all walls.
 

01sesedan

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Update. Pictures seem out of focus.

Been working on it slowly. Had to wait till Monday to locate the inflatable plug. Boy what a ripoff at ferguson. No-one else had it locally.

I have lots of respect for you guys that do this for a living. Changing the timing belt and water pump on a vw jetta 1.8 was easier than setting this up.

I doesn't look pretty but I hope it works



Whats your thoughts on water drop? I don't know if it has gone down because of evaporation. Or I didn't inflate the plug enough. Or its leaking somewhere. I used a bicycle pump with gauge and filled it to 40#, hope it's pretty accurate.

Its been cold for us and have been running the heater. I don't know if it evaporated some. I should have setup a container outside to compare.

What do you think?
 
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ShowerDude

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Joe,

Good progress ....

I cannot open pics on my iphone to look close.

The only way to know for sure is to pull plug and we will walk you thru a proper flood test.
 
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