Need to replace this toilet flange (corner broken off)?

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice' started by k9mlxj, Aug 11, 2013.

  1. k9mlxj

    k9mlxj Member

    Messages:
    104
    Location:
    Bay Area CA
    Hi there,

    Have a tile guy come install tile in the bathroom. However when he was adjusting the cement board position, he used a sledge hammer to loosen up where the cement board met the CI toilet flange (the cement board was slightly over the flange along one edge).


    One big area along that edge of the CI flange cracked and just broken off.

    http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=1291547&postcount=32


    IMG_0084b.jpg


    It smell really bad for a few mins. Now the smell is gone.


    Need to replace the CI toilet flange? I just wonder if the flange and also the drain pipe below is ok or not.


    I'm really shocked the tile guy used a sledge hammer to hit the area close to where the cement board met the CI flange.
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2013
  2. Smooky

    Smooky Member

    Messages:
    652
    Location:
    NC
    You should be able to set the toilet and get a good seal. The chip is in a location that should not cause a problem. If it had been in the location of where the bolt goes, then you would have needed a repair.
  3. k9mlxj

    k9mlxj Member

    Messages:
    104
    Location:
    Bay Area CA
    The flange is below the level of the 1/4" cement board. Once 3/8" thick tile is set the flange be 1/2"- 5/8" below tile's top surface.


    I'd need a 1/2" or just 1/4" toilet flange spacer when installing the toilet over the flange? Can I install that spacer w/ no problem given this edge broken off?
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2013
  4. asktom

    asktom Member

    Messages:
    589
    Location:
    Victor, MT
    Installing a spacer is no problem with your flange, in fact it will give a better surface for the wax. It looks like there is a red plastic horn from your old wax stuck in the ring, you want to yank that. It can do no good and can cause problems.
  5. k9mlxj

    k9mlxj Member

    Messages:
    104
    Location:
    Bay Area CA
    The red horn is the Fluidmaster toilet bowel gasket.


    Do folks just caulk between the top of the flange and the spacer? Someone suggests screwing the spacer into the subfloor, although in my case the subfloor has a hole which is only slightly smaller than the flange top so I don't know if the screws would hit the subfloor. Does that matter?



    BTW, is it easy to replace this CI flange? I don't see the nuts on the top of the flange so don't know how to remove it. Any ideas?
  6. asktom

    asktom Member

    Messages:
    589
    Location:
    Victor, MT
    To remove the ring you drill out the lead between the pipe and the ring then pick out the oakum below it. At that point the ring pulls out.
  7. wjcandee

    wjcandee Wise One

    Messages:
    1,977
    Location:
    New York, NY
    He is telling you this because we are cool with spacers UNDER the flange but not between the top of the flange and the wax. Forget about those and instead just use a thick ring or two wax rings.
  8. k9mlxj

    k9mlxj Member

    Messages:
    104
    Location:
    Bay Area CA
    Just wonder the reason that spacers don't really work well? Mainly w/ wax ring? Someone can explain?

    If I use Fluidmaster toilet gasket would that work out together ok w/ the spacers?

    http://www.fluidmaster.com/our-products/toilet-wax-ring-toilet-wax-free-gaskets.html


    How about the Sani Seal Wax-Free Gasket:
    http://www.lowes.com/pd_470197-3190...pl=1&currentURL=?Ntt=wax+free+ring&facetInfo=


    I need about 1/2" buildup at least from the flange now w/ the tile floor.



    Also, if I'm going to replace the damaged CI flange, I can install a new one at a higher position so it's on top of the new tile floor? How'd I install it to achieve this?


    Thx.
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2013
  9. asktom

    asktom Member

    Messages:
    589
    Location:
    Victor, MT
    It is possible to develop a leak between the ring and spacer. I never use them but many do. I either raise the ring or use thick wax.

    I am too old timey to use anything but wax so I have no opinion on the other seals.

    Your ring is probably a 4" X 2", they also come 4" X 4" & 4" X 6". You would need to caulk it in and caulk a short piece of 4" pipe into the inside of the ring to raise the drain to the top of the flange. They also make instant-set rings that clamp onto the outside of the pipe, but I don't care for them because it tends to be problematic to secure them to the floor. The instant-set would also need a short piece of 4" (plastic pipe is OK with either caulk or instant-set). (when I say caulk I mean oakum and lead or a lead substitute)

    Anyway, that is my somewhat opinionated view of your situation.
  10. dj2

    dj2 Member

    Messages:
    437
    Location:
    California
    You can also check out a product called sani seal.
  11. k9mlxj

    k9mlxj Member

    Messages:
    104
    Location:
    Bay Area CA
    I am deciding to use the Fluidmaster waxless bowl gasket as it worked out ok last time.


    I wonder though, this product has a 'universal' version that has a narrower diameter (so it can fit 3/4" sized) and

    The drain pipe size in my bathroom for the toilet is 4" size. Would it matter in flushing if I choose the narrower diameter universal version vs. the 4" (wider) diameter version of the bowl gasket which matches the drain pipe size even thought the toilet's trapway size is only 2 1/8"?
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 16, 2014
  12. k9mlxj

    k9mlxj Member

    Messages:
    104
    Location:
    Bay Area CA
    Any take? A wider diameter waxless gasket works better than the narrower universal gasket size with the 4" CI drain pipe in terms of flushing, or it won't matter?
  13. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    22,319
    Location:
    New England
    The outlet from the largest trapway of any toilet I know of is the Caroma, which is a 3" opening; most are in the order of slightly over 2". That opening is typically centered over the 3 or 4" drain hole. As long as the sealing material doesn't mushroom into the toilet's horn opening, it does not matter at all. Normally, the horn on the toilet prevents that, but if you are stacking multiple wax rings, it is more of a potential issue.
  14. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,416
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    It doesn't matter with that trapway sizing.
    The 4" Fluidmaster Waxless seems to be less to assemble though.
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