Need to move shower drain 0.5 inches

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Bmusgrove

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I need to shift a existing shower drain. In the attached photo is the pre- existing drain. Shower drain on the left of the sanitary t and tub on the left. The corner of the bathroom is in the mid upper left. The drain needs to be moved 0.5 inches towards that corner. There is not enough flex to leave as is.

As the shower drain is nothing but elbows and ... Well you can see. Any suggestions other than cutting at the sanitary t and starting over. Due to the emergent nature of this subfloor rip out, hiring a plumber to just redo it is not possible at this moment.
 

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BMWpowere36m3

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Looks like you'll have to cut the double fixture fitting and start over... I don't see a place to cut the shower arm and fit new fittings. Seems almost easier to just move the shower and/or pan over a 1/2".
 

Reach4

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Try searching for
PVC Eccentric Reducer or PVC offset coupling

I am not a pro, and I have never used such things.
 

Bmusgrove

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Looks like you'll have to cut the double fixture fitting and start over... I don't see a place to cut the shower arm and fit new fittings. Seems almost easier to just move the shower and/or pan over a 1/2".

This is the original position. The bathroom , when first built in 1992, was finished out with sheetrock before the tub and separate shower was installed. Tub and shower mounted to sheetrock, green board on top and then tile. Eventually a leak caused rot and a roach housing project was created. Since I had to rip it out down to the studs, I prefer to mount the tub and tile against the studs as it should have been done originally. Mounting against the studs moves everything a half inch.
 

BMWpowere36m3

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Still seems easier to do with cement/green/hardi board... how do you plan on attaching tile to studs without a backing board of some sort?
 

Terry

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What you have is akward.
We would use a double fixture fitting below the vent, and then 45 over below that.
You have a horizontal vent below the flood level. And we aren't allowed the double santee.

If your framing is too large, and you want to reuse that drain, I would consider either furring out the wall, or doing what they did. Adding a sheet to the wall first. They do that all the time in condos, as fire stops.
 

Koa

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Could he use a section of flexible pipe?
http://flexpvc.com/application-guidelines.shtml

Or, heat a section of standard pvc pipe and attach with a coupling when he gets the right bend.

Or, cut out the trap between the two adjacent elbows, then using a hack saw blade carefully cut notches in the section of pipe left in the elbow and use a small wood chisel or screw driver to snap out the old pipe. Glue in new trap rotated toward joist.
 

Queen50

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Novice here, can someone explain why a person couldn't add 1/2" marine grade plywood to the studs so that the drain will work where it is?
 

Bmusgrove

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What you have is akward.
We would use a double fixture fitting below the vent, and then 45 over below that.
You have a horizontal vent below the flood level. And we aren't allowed the double santee.

If your framing is too large, and you want to reuse that drain, I would consider either furring out the wall, or doing what they did. Adding a sheet to the wall first. They do that all the time in condos, as fire stops.

This whole house is awkward. This floor plan was originally designed for a corner at the other end of the street. When it was built (not me but a close relative) they liked the layout so much the builder actually flipped the upstairs layout 180 degrees left to right to get the master bedroom away from the street. As a result many small things don't quite match up. On this one side the upper floor framing overhangs the lower floor by 1 foot.
Look very closely at the picture you can see where the joist bay opens directly to the outside without any sheathing...

If I read that right, the more correct setup would have been to use the same, or similar, double fixture as this one, but attach it directly to the vent instead of using a 90 from the double fixture to the vent. If I decide to completely rebuild it, that will be helpful.

I am considering the use of something like the Reed Mfg PVC reamer to make one attempt to reposition the shower drain before rebuilding all of it.
 

FullySprinklered

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To meet your requirements, you'll have to peel a hub, go back with a new p-trap and rotate it toward the corner.
 
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Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

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