Need to install a pressure regulator

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Lost Dog

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I've lived in my house about 15 years and have always known the water pressure in our neighborhood was high (Camas, WA). I've measured it and it's averaging at a hose bib between 90 psi to 100 psi. In the back of my mind I knew problems are inevitable and yesterday one hit... Dripping water from the ceiling below the master bathroom. Fortunately I found it quickly and discovered a CPVC elbow joint was leaking from a hairline crack. I got that fixed easily enough but I realized I'm living on borrowed time with the high pressure.

No more excuses... a pressure regulator is in my future. Where should I install this? At the street after the shutoff valve or in the house at the shutoff valve (or somewhere else?). The in house valve is in a small closet just off the garage (same closet as the hatch to the crawl space).

Suggestions? While getting the fittings for the repair I noticed a sharkbite brand regulator for about $60 (10 psi to 70 psi adjustment). Seems to have decent reviews but I know sharkbite products can generate rather heated debates... Maybe a different brand with sharkbite fitting added? I'm not adverse to other methods (as long as I don't have to sweat copper) but they are just so easy...

Thanks for the advice.

Neil
 

Jadnashua

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Usually, the thing is installed inside the house after the shutoff valve. Also note that if you do not also install an expansion tank, your pressure will still spike, maybe even higher, as the water heater causes water expansion. The PRV causes the system to become 'closed', and that expanding water can easily exceed 150psi (the point where the WH starts to vent) if something else doesn't leak first. Some PRV's have an internal bypass, but that still must have the house pressure rise above the supply pressure before it can bypass the PRV and leak back into the main. Best to use an expansion tank, and when properly setup, the pressure should be stable.

No experience with the Sharkbite PRV. The things are code approved and should work.
 

Lost Dog

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Thanks for the comments! I should have added that I do have a expansion tank on the water heater so I'm good to go there. Since I'm in there I'll take the time to put in a quarter turn ball valve as opposed to the multi turn valve on there now.
 

hj

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"having an expansion tank" and having a "functioning expansion tank" can be two different things because they do not "last forever".
 
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Lost Dog

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"having and expansion tank" and having a "functioning expansion tank" can be two different things because they do not "last forever".

Very good point! This one is only two years old (added one when I installed a new water heater).
 

Gary Swart

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It's not too difficult to check an expansion tank. Just tap it with something that will make it ring. ( hammer, screwdriver, large bolt, etc.) If you get a nice bell like sound, you're good. If you get a dull thud, your tank has failed and needs replacing. Should last for several years, but no guarantee on that so don't just assume your tank is good just because it's only 2 years old.
 

Lost Dog

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The expansion tank gives a nice muted bell sounds. Good to go. I think I'll be attacking this project sometime this week. Once I've got the regulator in place I'll adjust the pressure in the expansion tank (if I read correctly the PSI should match the PSI of the water measured on the house side of the regulator).
 

Jadnashua

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Yes, the pressure should match. That puts the bladder in a neutral position, and should only need to compress when the WH is functioning. After it stops, and you open any valve, it will return to that neutral position until the WH runs again, allowing the house pressure to stay very close to the set point of the PRV.
 
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