Need to confirm solution for CI flange that is too high

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Stephenson

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Demo'd 1960s bathroom with thick mortar base on floor tiles. Knew the flange would end up too high - test fit of toilet shows it is - just rocks on top of the flange.

CI is 4" with usual caulked lead flange. New tile job is completed and under it.

Was gonna drill out and remove the lead and flange, then see if Sioux Chief 890 with the outside compression gasket will work without cutting CI pipe - if it does, great, if pipe itself if too high (probably will be), will use grinder to cut it down so that the flange sits flat on the floor. I know I may have to cut around the pipe to get enough space for the flange to fit around the outside of the pipe.

Thoughts?
 

Stephenson

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OK ...just got photo from son of the pipe leading from the flange to the basement ...am now confused ...can't reach him for more info and photos, yet ...can you pros identify what this is?
 

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Stephenson

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hmmm ...so, if the lead pipe is too high, i.e. the flange is too high, does one remove the flange from the lead pipe, then cut the lead down? The inside and outside compression systems made sense to me on CI, but lead is pretty soft ...outside my knowledge area :)
 

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just reviewed some other options ... perhaps just easier to put in PVC back up to a glued in PVC flange from the CI hub? biggest issues is getting all the lead out of the CI hub, right? But, it's accessible from basement so might be easier to do this?
 

Reach4

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hmmm ...so, if the lead pipe is too high, i.e. the flange is too high, does one remove the flange from the lead pipe, then cut the lead down? The inside and outside compression systems made sense to me on CI, but lead is pretty soft ...outside my knowledge area :)
Guess the pictures in the thread I pointed to are not similar to what is up top now. But your initial description seemed to be for cast iron running up to the flange. The bottom picture tells a different story. Maybe clean up the top and post a picture of that. Somebody may have an idea or two for you.
 

Reach4

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Using a donut would be a good install, but I would look for the easier way if things are suitable up top.
 

Stephenson

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Reach4 ...I understand what to do at the hub for that solution, but, I'm not clear on how I would shorten the lead pipe ...just cut it? What kind of flange would be used? I can't find any texts that discuss how to deal with the end of the lead pipe ...can it be treated like CI and I just use the outer or inner compression or is it too soft? Or, does it just get cut in some way and folded over the floor lip with a flange on top that screws through all of it into the floor?
 

Reach4

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Lead can be formed within limits. You may be able to form it to the floor where it would get contacted by the wax.

How about a picture?
Here is one example of a repair flange, but there are others:

red_ring_03.jpg


Here are some other threads with various situations and how they might be dealt with: https://terrylove.com/forums/index....t-flange-to-mangled-lead-soil-pipe-help.4974/
https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/replacing-toilet-flange.9848/
https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/closet-flange-cast-iron-condition.35302/
 
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Stephenson

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Hey everyone,

After some investigation and mild swearing, I was able to gently pry away the folded lead lip overtop the flange and slide the flange down to the surface of the tile. Since that would deal with the height issue, would you recommend cutting the lead back a bit and then folding back overtop the flange? And I assume I would need to screw the flange through the tile into the floor?

Here are some pictures.
 

Reach4

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Nice. That's the kind of thing I was hoping for for you. The lead can fatigue after enough bending, so you want to minimize that. I am thinking somebody will have some tips to improve survival of the lead. A tapered cone that could be inserted into the hole to spread the lead out gradually would seem to be a useful tool to massage the lead over the flange.

If that is porcelain tile, that stuff is hard to drill. You will want to read up on that. However if you crack tile near the flange, that will not be so bad. That all gets covered by the toilet.
 

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Yes, it's porcelain...will probably need to get a drill bit designed for that. Anyone have thoughts regarding the fatiguing of the lead and how to minimize cracks?
 

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Good news! Was able to safely and successfully trim and peen the lead back around the flange after I repositioned it. Just went slow and easy - worked just fine.

I took a picture after I was done, but it was sadly blurred beyond use. Thanks for the help!
 
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Hey, wait a minute.

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