Need help Wiel-McLAin Ultra 80 series 2

Discussion in 'Boiler Forum' started by alternety, Jan 12, 2013.

  1. alternety

    alternety Like an engineer

    Messages:
    651
    Location:
    Washington
    We have been without heat and hot water for 2 weeks. Temps are going to low 20s to upper teens starting last night. It is going to do that for most of the week. I finally got a repair kit for the boiler yesterday. You basically replace the entire core and everything in it. Instructions in the kit are so-so. Remove xxx form yyy. Fine, but how does one do that sort of things.

    I believe I have everything needed except the exhaust pipe. The light weight stainless exhaust sits in a little cup like structure at the base of the boiler core. I goes up to the exhaust PVC at the top of the unit. Instructions say, loosen the PVC clamp and remove the SS duct. The PVC clamp is not the normal screw operated SS hose clamp like the rest. It seems to have the same screw hose clamp mechanism but disappears into the piping and I cant tell how it actually works. Unscrewing it seems to have no effect. The duct does not turn or move up and down. This observation is limited by my strength. Which ain't what it used to be. How is this dissembled?

    It appears that just lowering the boiler core would allow the duct to come out of the cup. The problem is that the core bolts are to be loosened only and they lift out of U shaped slots. So down is not an official option. If I remove the bolts while using something to support the core I might be able to get it. I will be working on that approach while all you guys out there are formulating you solutions.

    The instructions also say to use a new cork gasket between the gas mixer and the boiler assembly; but it is not included in the kit. The gasket looks OK to me. But is it crucial that a new one be used?
  2. Tom Sawyer

    Tom Sawyer In the Trades

    Messages:
    3,174
    Location:
    Maine
    If this is a warranty replacement you need an authorized installer or you void the new warranty
  3. BadgerBoilerMN

    BadgerBoilerMN Master Hot Water Mpls,MN

    Messages:
    303
    Location:
    Minneapolis
    We are certified Weil McLain service center here in Minneapolis and have repaired many Ultra condensing boilers. There is no high efficiency condensing boiler qualifies as a DIY project. It would be extremely unlikely that any layman would possess the advanced skills or expensive tools needed to properly commission a while McLain Ultra. You will also need to test the water quality and treat the system if you want the new heat exchanger to last.

    I would call the factory and ask them for a local, licensed contractor and further qualify the contractor for aptitude (factory training and/or experience) and attitude (many professional contractors do not appreciate the professional challenges that condensing boilers present.

    Finally, you will need a qualified technician to perform the annual service required by all manufacturers of condensing boilers for continued efficiency and most important, personal safety.
  4. alternety

    alternety Like an engineer

    Messages:
    651
    Location:
    Washington
    Thank you Badger. I have truly known and been aware of everything you have said. And has been fully in my mind while trying to get in touch with the original contractor or finding another through all the methods mentioned. What I really need is some assistance on getting the vent stack removed. Everything necessary for removal is complete; except that stack. I just need to get that out. I believe I have a plan. The physical replacement of the heat exchanger assembly is trivial.

    And, I just got a return call from my contractor - he was traveling. Back Monday!!!! Be here Monday morning.

    The antifreeze/water is more complicated as I believe I have mentioned above. It will not be addressed at this time; but very soon.
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2013
  5. Tom Sawyer

    Tom Sawyer In the Trades

    Messages:
    3,174
    Location:
    Maine

    I have a bad feeling about this. Lol
  6. alternety

    alternety Like an engineer

    Messages:
    651
    Location:
    Washington
    Contractor showed up, installed new boiler into the cabinet I had prepped. Powered up, tested, working its' little heart out to bring all the mass up to temperature. 15 days fail to working. Not exciting.
  7. alternety

    alternety Like an engineer

    Messages:
    651
    Location:
    Washington
    Hints to others. If you have to go through this process you can help save your installer some time and annoyance if they are not familiar with the process on this unit. None of this would be discovered in a new install.

    Note that the combustion intake air is not connected to the boiler. It only services the cabinet. When you open the cabinet, a bit of blue tape on the inlet pipe keeps down the draft. Put a piece outside as well to remind you that you have blocked the combustion air source when you finish your replacement.

    The 4 bolts holding the boiler - use a 10mm wrench.
    The instructions tell you to remove the air silencer before removing the blower assembly. This is not necessary. Blower comes out just fine with it on.
    An compressed air hose in an opening into the pipe isolated from the rest of the system seemed to help get the last bit of fluid out quickly. Take a little piece of small bubble wrap in your had and use it to seal around the air hose.
    If you have a problem getting the SS exhaust stack to move up so the boiler can be pulled out. Place narrow jack (e.g., from car) under boiler (clearing the condensate drain). Crank it up till it is snug against the boiler. Remove 4 support bolts. Slowly lower jack, keeping the boiler vertical and easing the flue stack out of the cup it sits in. Reverse for install. Being careful to keep the boiler square to the flue and guide the pipe into the washer in the cup.

    If you can get them, I personally would order a new O ring for the gas assembly and a new cork gasket the instructions say replace but do not include in the kit. Both the installer and I examined these and they seemed fine; but as long as it is apart - why not.

    You are also going to be surprised at the quality and approach used to provide a air seal around the cabinet. It is all hardware store weather stripping. Glue is no longer particularly effective and most pieces will probably fall off and acquire a lot of crap from the floor on the glue side. The pieces on the sides are different. They seem to be stuck on sideways to the case. The lip of the cover just pushes into the side of the foam. There is nothing on the back side of the foam to allow pressure to make a seal. The cover just pushes the foam off. All foam appears to be open cell. I did a sophisticated scientific test - I used my mouth to blow through the foam. Take a look while waiting for your new heat exchanger and get some new foam.
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