Need Help Specifying Correct Toto Toilet

Discussion in 'Toilet Forum discussions' started by SEBRA, Jan 22, 2013.

  1. SEBRA

    SEBRA New Member

    Messages:
    3
    Location:
    Sacramento
    I would like to install a Toto Vespin II, model #CST474CEFG. The spec sheet states it includes a 12" Uni-Fit Rough-In, however,
    it also says a TSUO1W.14, 14" Rough-In, is sold separately. We have a 14" RoughIn. Will the 12" UniFit work on our 14" and allow
    the toilet to sit as close to the wall as possible? Last question;The spec sheet states the water supply should be located at 8" and
    ours is 4". Is this a major expense to move the supply line? Thanks in advance for your assistance
  2. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    22,139
    Location:
    New England
    If you want the minimum distance behind the toilet, you need to buy the 14" Unifit adapter as a separate part and no, there's no credit for the 12" one that comes in the box. You might be able to use a right-angle stop to get the water supply over far enough, and that might mean only replacing the stop, but it may require you to move the whole thing over. The position in the spec sheet is the 'ideal' position, it will work closer, but I don't think it will make it at 4". The cost to move the supply depends - it could be fairly easy, less than 1/2-hour or so, maybe less, maybe more. Depends on the labor rate at your location how much that is.
  3. wjcandee

    wjcandee Wise One

    Messages:
    1,895
    Location:
    New York, NY
    You say you have 14" rough-in. Just to check, that means that if you take a tape measure and measure from the finished wall (not the baseboard) to the center of the closet bolts on each side of the existing toilet (or the center of the closet flange if you have no toilet in place), you get 14". Right?

    Okay, so here's how the unifit works. The thing mounts on the floor over the flange and runs a pipe back towards the wall from the flange. There is a spigot molded into the portion of the toilet closest to the wall that inserts down (male) into the pipe on the unifit (female). So, I'll do a little diagram for you:

    Flange---------------------------Xinsertion point for toilet
    14" Unifit

    Flange----------------------X
    12" Unifit

    Flange----------------X
    10" Unifit

    So...if you have a 14" rough-in, the wall is going to be further back from the flange so you want the rear of the toilet to connect further behind the flange. So you need to buy the 14" Unifit. The way it works, the toilet always comes with the 12" one, and every plumber who installs these has a zillion leftover ones, so they are essentially-worthless unless you want to sell it on ****. You just buy the 14" one and install it, and then mount the toilet on it.

    Another way of looking at my diagram above is this:

    WALL..X--------------Flange
    10" rough-in

    WALL..X-------------------Flange
    12" rough-in

    WALL..X---------------------------Flange
    14" rough-in

    Because the flange is further from the wall, you want the unifit with the longer pipe portion so you can put the toilet next to the wall and have the pipe reach forward to the 14" flange. Make sense?

    You most likely don't need to actually move the supply line. Instead, your plumber can just do a 90 over from where it comes out of the wall so that it doesn't impinge the rear of the toilet. There is a little room between the rear of the base and the wall -- a little more than between the tank and the wall. It really depends upon your installation but it also might be possible just to replace the stop that's there with a 1/4 turn ball angle stop like a Dahl valve, and it may just fit. Dahl also makes a little kit especially for installing skirted Toto toilets. http://www.dahlvalve.com/products/toto_toilet_kit.aspx

    And here's the brochure for the same product: http://www.dahlvalve.com/brochure/Totokit.pdf

    Basically, it consists of a compression fitting that goes over the pipe coming out of the wall, and automatically has a built-in 90 followed by a quarter-turn angle stop with a small handle, so that it can fit essentially right against the wall. Look at the photo and tell me if that doesn't make sense. I guided a guy through it with videos and such a couple of months ago; he was freaking about having to call a plumber to install the toilet and when I showed him how easy it is for a laymen to install a compression angle stop on the wall pipe (remember to turn off the house water and drain it down before removing the old one), he just did it all himself -- got the Dahl kit, removed the old stop, cut the pipe back a bit, installed the new compression fitting Dahl kit, installed the toilet, and felt like a million bucks when it was done. I'll find the thread if you need it.

    Good luck!!
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2013
  4. SEBRA

    SEBRA New Member

    Messages:
    3
    Location:
    Sacramento
    Thank you so much for your response!
  5. SEBRA

    SEBRA New Member

    Messages:
    3
    Location:
    Sacramento
    Thanks so much for your prompt response and wonderfully detailed explanation!!!
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