Need help modifying the basement toilet rough in

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Elel

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Hi,
I did a lot of research about DWV system and I'm trying to do things right so any help will be appreciated. I'm trying to modify my current basement toilet rough in because I want to rearrange the layout. So before cutting the poured concrete I wanted to confirm that the new plumbing will be correct. I want to reuse the current drain pipes so I can save time and cut the concrete only where is needed.

cleanout.JPG
 
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Elel

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This is how the bathroom layout will be.
 
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Anyone? I apologize if this is in a wrong thread.
 

Terry

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The modified drawing looks fine but will need end of line cleanouts.
If there is a vent somewhere in the system that goes through the roof, then the others can use an AAV.
 

Elel

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Yeah that's how they roughed in unfortunately. Do I need 3 different clean-outs 1 for the toilet 1 for the vanity and 1 for the shower ?
 
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Elel

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Can you please comment on the type and the orientation of the connections if I have it right? I still need to decide where to put the clean-outs.

labeled.JPG
 
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First awesome job on all the pics and diagrams. This is an example of what every member asking questions here should do, but don't.

Can you update the render to include expected direction flow of the DWV system, and perhaps zoom out a little more to see where the main soil stack is? Also, label some text in there to tell us what each rough will be: washer standpipe, shower, toilet, sink, etc.

You can put cleanouts anywhere you think there will be access from a completed and walled basement.

The general rule is that a cleanout can be placed anywhere on a vertical Wye, and on the top of any horizontal Tee. Just prevent water from hoarding on the plugs, as the threads will fail.
 

Elel

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Thank you standardairconditioner.
 
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Your photos are too littered with layers of grease penciling and makes it confusing. Try to keep all that infos in your 3d illustrations, so yes, put the cleanouts there. We can reference to a cleaner photo, as if we were standing in your basement.

If you can take a new photo from a corner in your basement, so things are more zoomed out, and use shovels or sticks to show where things are. Try to show us where your main soil stack ends.

I don't like how that shower is drained, it's one hell of a long path, and would be difficult to grade down. Avoid using elbows because clogs happen there and it is harder to squeeze a snake thru them. You are hoping that you never have to snake anything for 50 years after you put this in service.

I bet that toilet flange is making a diagonal right to the soil stack. Do the same from the rest of your drains, diagonals are straight and the shortest distance. Straight runs are easier to snake.

Use big pipes. It won't cost much more. This is stuff that will be covered up in concrete, so there are no second chances. No regrets.

The toilet should be 4" all the way to the soil stack.

The two lavs can be 2" from the roughs, but 3" from the double Tee-Wye, and staying 3" until it Wye's to the toilet's 4" as in your diagram.

If you have enough depth, use 3" everything for the shower. They do make 3" traps. It is huge, but allows for all sorts of hairballs to be stuck in it. The shower can run a diagonal, and connect to a Wye anywhere after the lav's Wye.

All vents can be reduced to 2".
 

Elel

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Unfortunately everything is buried under the concrete slab now so I was hoping to cut as less concrete as possible.
 
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I guess we were hoping for the best that the photos were recent and the concrete wasn't poured in.

There's no way to sugarcoat this mess. You'll just have to do your best and hack what you've got. AAVs may help you here.

You know where your pipes are. It'll be easy for strangers on the internet to tell you to dig up stuff, but in the end you are the one doing the heavy work.
 

Elel

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Thank you very much for your help. I'm planning to connect everything as it's shown in the post #9 and hope for the best :) I will just need to add clean-outs where the vents will be to help with the unclogging of the long pipes.
 

hj

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quote; Just prevent water from hoarding on the plugs, as the threads will fail.

I have had inspectors REJECT cleanout which were NOT BELOW the tees, where water could "hoard on the plugs". 90%, or more, of our cleanouts are below the tees.
 

Elel

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Does this look any better from the previous layout? It's a little bit more digging but if I can connect the shower next to the back water valve (which can be seen from post #1) and save on cleanouts and venting it will be great. I might need to add one or two 1/8 bend fittings between the shower p-trap and the wye to get to the right angle. Again thank you very much for your help.

newp1.JPG
 

Cacher_Chick

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The above drawing would pass inspection in most places if the length of the shower's trap arm does not exceed the permitted trap to vent distance under your area's code, and add a cleanout at the sink.
 
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