Need advise on boiler setup

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laars888

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i have a teledine laars mini therm 160,ooo BTU atmospheric ,two Honeywell zone valves,basically main floor hall way and basement hallway were the thermostat are,Honeywell basic ones 10 to 30 c on them.
I have a 1960 copper baseboard heating tell me if this setup is good,also some tech are saying to leave the existing water heater set up and other say to go with indirect water heat ,tell me the best way to hook that up. having problem when turning up thermostat to call for heat and it draw the relay on the laars to click on once sometimes the clicking goes crazy ,i have replaced the relay on the laars but it still does it
 

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Dana

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The 160,000 BTU boiler is probably about 3x oversized (or more) for your actual heat load, and using it to heat your hot water with an indirect would improve the as-used efficiency. Since it is a relatively l0w-thermal mass boiler it needs enough radiation or thermal mass on each zone to run minimum burn times of at least three minutes to hit close to it's AFUE efficiency numbers, but that would be well over 100' of baseboard per zone. It is probably short-cycling on zone calls. (High-mass boilers would need longer burn times.) If it is typically running 1-minute burn times and more than 10 burns per hour, it is probably going to be worth adding a heat-purging economizer controller such as the Intellicon 3250 HW+ or similar to stretch out the burns and lower the number of on/off cycles.

By adding the hot water load it gives it a higher duty cycle, which moves it up the efficiency curve closer to it's steady-state efficiency. The standby loss of center-flue atmospheric drafted hot water heaters is much higher than the standby loss of an indirect too. But if the water heater is fairly new and the fuel is natural gas rather than propane, it's not necessarily cost-effective to just scrap it and install an indirect.

The rattling relay could be due to any number of things, such as the wiring from the thermostat having a bad connection, or the voltage of the control transformer being too low, or some electronics on the control board having a failing component or failed solder connection. A short-cycling boiler that is experiencing hundreds of or ignition cycles per day will put more wear & tear on the electromechanical components such as relays & solenoid operated gas valves, but if the relay has been replaced the problem is up-stream of the relay on the control circuit.
 
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