Need a recommendation please

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Half Pint

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Problems: 14" rough in a narrow basement bath. The floor is tiled around the hole in the floor. The 4" pipe is flush to concrete with flange off. I am wondering if I put on a flange over the tile if the TOTO 14" unifit will make the toilet too high. Also can you recommend the best/affordable TOTO model for this area? I am looking for around a 16 1/2" floor to lip height. My husband has never set a toilet. Does this adapter add much difficulty to the process? Thank you!
 

Terry

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the adapter adds a lot of difficulty to the installation. The flange is SUPPOSED to go "over the tile".

It's not hard for us. But then we install a lot of them. It's the same price to do them as for any of the toilets we install. If you're there installing a toilet, what's the difference? Pull out the drill and make it happen!

The closet flange goes over the tile. If it's below the tile, you have the option of using two wax rings.

With a 14" rough, any 12" bowl will work.
If you want to pull the bowl back closer to the wall, then something like the TOTO Vespin CST474CEFG with 14" Unift adapter.
 

WJcandee

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Like Terry says, a 12" rough-in toilet like the Toto Drake II will fit happily on a 14" rough-in. You will just have more space between toilet and wall. The 14" Unifit will move the toilet 2" closer to the wall, eliminating the gap between toilet and wall and making it not protrude as far forward into the room, but you need a toilet that works with the Unifit, like the Vespin II that Terry recommended.

If you want to see how much more work it is, here are the instructions from Toto. Really, what you do is drill a couple of holes in the floor, using a template provided with the toilet, and secure the Unifit to the floor using those holes. At the other end of the Unifit, you mount it to the flange using a wax ring, kind of the same way you would a toilet. You then put the toilet down on top of the Unifit, plugging the outlet of the toilet into the Unifit, and secure the toilet to the Unifit. If your husband is comfortable using a drill into flooring, it's not that big a deal. But he has to be the kind of person that doesn't mind putting on the glasses and reading directions and who doesn't mind measuring carefully. The 12" Drake II that I mentioned is a more-traditional installation, just mounting onto the flange.

With a two-piece toilet, I believe that you can put the bowl in place before attaching the tank if that's easier (because it's lighter and easier to maneuver).

The couple of things to think about: does the water supply come out of the wall or out of the floor, and where does it come out? The toilets that use the Unifit have a "skirt" on them, and require a little more distance from the centerline for the water supply at the wall, but not as much as Toto recommends. We have some easy-ish ways around that if your husband needs help.

Let us know how it goes. We like seeing results!
 
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Gary Swart

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Just to emphasize the point already mentioned, the Toto Unifit will only work on Toto toilet models that are designed for it. The Vespin ll is one of these models, but there are several others.
 

Reach4

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Problems: 14" rough in a narrow basement bath. The floor is tiled around the hole in the floor. The 4" pipe is flush to concrete with flange off. I am wondering if I put on a flange over the tile if the TOTO 14" unifit will make the toilet too high. Also can you recommend the best/affordable TOTO model for this area? I am looking for around a 16 1/2" floor to lip height. My husband has never set a toilet. Does this adapter add much difficulty to the process? Thank you!

Amateur here. There are somethings that are harder and some are simpler with Unifit for the novice. One easier thing is that you can apply the wax ring(s) easily without having to lift a heavy toilet during that stage. No worry that you are messing up the wax when you reposition the angle etc. The pro will probably get the angle right the first time. Similarly, if you are applying shims to level the toilet, then will you be lifting part of the toilet higher than it was when you smushed the wax? No worry about that with the Unifit. On the other hand, there is the effort to make the extra mounting holes. That is 4 extra holes, and if you are drilling through porcelain tile, that can be a major thing. Drilling ceramic tile is easier but not trivial. Maybe you could avoid drilling, since the mounting screw area is pretty much within the skirt. Maybe an inch or so. The Vespin II is less expensive than most Unifit toilets, but it will be a premium over conventional toilets. The 14 inch Unifit adapter will add a significant amount to the cost.

Let's talk about your rough-in. Is that 14 inches 14.4 or 13.5 inches or what? Rather than eyeball the center of the 4-inch pipe, measure to the inside of the near side and far side of the pipe from the wall. Take the average. Are you thinking of adding some paneling or maybe some XPS foam insulation topped with something? It does not take much in the way of wall covering to bring you to a 12 inch rough-in.

The PVC pipe is even with the concrete, and the tile sits what -- 3/8 inch higher than the concrete? You should not have a problem with any closet flange that is made to fit inside 4 inch PVC. I presume the concrete comes right up to the outside of the PVC pipe. You might consider a PushTite 887-GPM closet flange to avoid gluing. Gluing PVC is not a big deal, but it is not mandatory. It's nice to know that you could easily replace the closet flange if needed. I like Tapcon screws when looking for pretty good strength and fairly easy install in concrete. Note, however, with the Unifit toilets it is not so much the screws that hold the toilet from front and center side forces, but rather the sealant that you use around the skirt. With a regular toilet, the closet bolts hold the toilet in position closer to the middle. In the Unifit toilets, the toilet is held laterally only at the back, and it is held down by back screws and gravity. It works well however.
 
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