My tank to bowl seal is leaking

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CountryBumkin

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I have an old two-piece Briggs toilet (the 3.5 or 5 gallon flush model - I'm not sure which) installed in 1990.
I noticed this morning that the tank rocks a little on the bowl. I reached under and was able to turn one of the tank mounting bolt/nuts a turn by hand. This movement started a leak at one of the tank mounting bolts.

I am planning to stop at HD on the way home tonight.

So my question is, is there anything specific I should look for at HD regarding a repair kit?
Is it somewhat universal - or should I disassemble first and take the seals/parts with me to match up?

I assume I will want the large gasket for tank to bowl (which is not leaking), and the two smaller seals (with the bolts, washers, nuts) for the tank mounting.
 
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CountryBumkin

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Smooky

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While you have it apart I would replace the flush valve. If you figure out which flush valve you need, then you will know what size tank to bowl seal you need.
 

CountryBumkin

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Thanks.
That Korky kit I linked to above includes the flush valve, so I should be good (unless that kit is only for the new model 1.5 or 1.2 gal toilets) and doesn't work for my "water-waster" toilet.

But I'm not sure if the same "rebuild" kits work for the old and new type toilets. I hadn't thought of this before.

Also do you recommend using a washer an nut under the tank, or just install per instructions?
I think I read here that it is recommended to add this additional washer and nut to ensure rubber gasket stay compressed.
Tank to Bowl instructions2.jpg
 
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Terry

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Fluidmaster also makes a tank rebuild kit. The Korky works too.
The Fluidmaster kit comes with an adjustable flapper that will dial in the amount of water released. If you're pulling the tank, it's nice to replace the other parts while you are at it. I've seen some tank to bowl bolts totally rusted away over time.
 

Flapper

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Don't get those cheap kits that come with brass plated bolts; they are steel bolts plated with brass to make them look like brass; they will rust and cause trouble in the future. You should use real brass bolts. Or stainless steel.

The Fluidmaster rebuilt kit comes with real brass bolts. Don't know about the Korky.
 

Flapper

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But I'm not sure if the same "rebuild" kits work for the old and new type toilets. I hadn't thought of this before.
The only difference is the flapper; the Korky rebuild kit comes with a regular flapper so it is ideal for old toilets but not for 1.6– toilets.
The Fluidmaster kit comes with an adjustable flapper so it is good for old toilets and 1.6– toilets.
 

Flapper

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What about adding the extra washer and nut under the tank? Do you do it - or not?
Some people do it, some don't. Some people don't do it because it makes it more difficult to cut the bolts if they need to be cut. And probably because it's easier.
I do it. There was one bolt I installed that was leaking; I tightened the bolt under the bowl, but that did not help, so I reached in with pliers to tighten the bolt under the tank, and that fixed it. (I didn't tighten those bolts very tight because the Fluidmaster instructions said to tighten them hand-tight...)
I recommend you do it if the kit comes with the parts. If not then don't.

Screen Shot 2016-08-02 at 2.26.34 PM.png
<--From Fluidmaster instructions. (note: they got the tank and bowl labels mixed up)
 
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Flapper

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I wouldn't replace the flush valve and fill valve if there is nothing wrong with them. Just replace the leaking gasket and bolts.
 

Flapper

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Does the Korky kit come with stainless steel, or steel bolts? They look silver in color. They better be stainless steel!!
 
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