My plumbing fixtures are not aligned

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debbiejeans

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In the pictures you can see that the our 3rd year apprentice plumber didn't check to make sure he aligned the taps with the over flow. Now the wall board is on ready for the tile, and I just notice that this not right.
Is there a easy fix other than taking all the wall board off? The wall behind the fixture is open right now as a linen closet will be going there so there is access to the water lines. Thanks
 

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FullySprinklered

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The valve will have to scoot over, but not very far. Might be able to scallop the existing holes enough to get things lined up. Tile should cover the boo boo.
 

Dj2

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You can move the faucet from the back, align and fasten. If needed, enlarge the hole in the board to allow the faucet to be moved, the tiles should cover it.
Another concern: Will the rough in valve allow for the tile depth? I can't tell from the pics, but verify when you move the faucet.
Have your plumber see an eye doc.
 

Cacher_Chick

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If the spout is off center, I would think that the valve would be off center too. If there is also a shower head, make sure the spout is not piped with PEX, or you may have further problems with water coming out the shower head regardless of the diverter.
 

Cool Blue Harley

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Looks like rough-in was for tub to be against rough framing. Is the tub off by the thickness of the durarock? Communication is essential between different trades on jobsite. More parties to blame than just the plumber perhaps. is the tub W&O already hookedb up or is that happening in the ceiling below?
 

debbiejeans

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Looks like rough-in was for tub to be against rough framing. Is the tub off by the thickness of the durarock? Communication is essential between different trades on jobsite. More parties to blame than just the plumber perhaps. is the tub W&O already hookedb up or is that happening in the ceiling below?


Yes the shower head and faucets handle are also off center the same amount cause they are one the same water line..
 

Cool Blue Harley

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Tubs are ALWAYS against the "rough framing" which is where the faucet rough in should have been figured from.

You are implying that that the tub installation was done correctly. I can see the tub flange against the hardy backer in the photo which means it is not against the rough framing. Is the same true of the edge supported by the tub ledger not in the photo? Debbiejeans. Post a photo of the tub edge against the wall to the right of the valve. Perhaps the plumber roughed in the valve and tub filler correctly but the tub was installed incorrectly. There is no "ALWAYS" in the real world HJ!
 

FullySprinklered

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Put the beer down and go to bed.



Oops, that was unkind of me. Maybe I should put MY drink down and go to bed.
 
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Jadnashua

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Perfectly centering the valve is a nice to have, but won't affect the actual functionality. A pink tub wouldn't be my first choice though! It may be where it is because of where the wall studs line up and the plumber didn't want to play carpenter to move them around.

FWIW, unless you're going to put a surface waterproofing material on the walls, there should be a moisture barrier behind the cbu that laps over the tiling flange to direct any moisture that might get there into the tub. CBU is not waterproof, but is not damaged by being wet...that isn't true for what is behind it, thus the reason for the moisture barrier there. That can be a sheet of plastic or tar paper.
 

debbiejeans

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Tubs are ALWAYS against the "rough framing" which is where the faucet rough in should have been figured from.


A barrier was put behind the cement board , red guard will be applied all over to waterproof it once we get the plumbing fixtures in a straight line.
 

Jadnashua

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FWIW, a barrier behind AND a barrier on top is not considered good practice...it should be one or the other. It's nearly impossible to seal the edges perfectly, and by having that barrier on both sides of the cbu...it can absorb and never be able to release moisture.
 

debbiejeans

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FWIW, a barrier behind AND a barrier on top is not considered good practice...it should be one or the other. It's nearly impossible to seal the edges perfectly, and by having that barrier on both sides of the cbu...it can absorb and never be able to release moisture.
Black paper barrier was only put on the exterior/ outside wall , inside walls don't have it...
 
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Dj2

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You need a moisture barrier between the studs and the CBU. Redgard is not necessary.
Remove the board, install a barrier CORRECTLY, then put the CBU back.

And when you do that, you will have a chance to re-align the plumbing.
 

Jadnashua

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You can use a surface waterproofing, but if you're not careful, any small error can cause interior wall damages. My preference is a sheet membrane verses a liquid one. If you stick with Redgard, buy a wet film thickness gauge, learn how to use it correctly, and then verify that you are getting your coats the proper thickness and watch the joints, especially the horizontal ones at the tub surface. If those aren't done well, you'll get water behind the waterproofing, then that will get into the walls. CBU will wick moisture unless you're seal is perfect. That's much harder to do with liquid painted on stuff than sheets.
 
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