Moving toilet in house built in 1962 - help with 90 degree w/ low heel.

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Sam Peace

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I am trying to move two toilets over. Guess folks where quite a bet narrower back in the 60's, (center of the two toilet is about 12 inches from wall, and about 14 - 15 inches from the sink cabinet), I need to move them over at least 4 inches and could go as far a 8 inch without creating a problem.

I have excavated area, the current situation, is a 4 inch 90 degree cast iron fiting, which the toilet was attached, and it has a 2 inch low heel, that is a vent. (turned on all water in area and no water went through this pipe-also it is clear that the 2 inch galvanized pipe attached goes to wall behind toilet and then 90 degrees straight up, there is a vent pipe right where this pipe would continue on the roof. The other toilet to move appears to be identical but haven't excavated yet. There is a 2 inch galvanized pipe that vents to roof right behind the toilet. , and I am betting I will find the same thing a this location. I assume that was code back then, and perhaps not now. When I move to I have to bring it up to code?

There is a four inch cast iron line which run the width of the house to the septic exit in a straight line running in the middle of the two bathrooms, and I am assuming that the tubs/sinks/toilets (based on the water flow detected) all tee'd off this straight run. The main line continues outside, makes a 90 degree turn and then back into house, to a toilet and sink only that was added to a converted car port area. This toilet has a vent as well behind it. This toilet and sink will be abandoned. That is the extent of the 4 inch cast iron pipe for sewage.

The kitchen sink and washer was piped with a 3inch cast iron to a grease trap not connected to septic.

Any ideas, the 4 inch pipe is still in great shape, can cut it close to the existing 90 degree cast iron and have plenty of pipe to connect a 4 inch to 3 inch converter. Need to convert to 3 inch quickly because of space. But what next?

I can then attach a 90 degree 3 inch PVC going to right and then another 90 degree going straight up for new toilet location. I have measured and it will work, but what about the vent? How would you reconnect or do I have too? If I put a tee (it would have to be have two 3 inch openings and one middle 2 inch opening) between the two new 90 degree pieces, pointing the 2 inch opening straight up, I should have enough depth to make the connect back to the 2 inch galvanized vent pipe, but only with a 90 degree turn on top of this tee.

Or I could add a tee (with all openings 3 inches, instead of the first 90 degree, pointing the middle opening to the right and add the other 90 degree to the middle of the tee pointing up to set the toilet. Then I have a three inch opening by the existing 2 inch vent pipe to convert, but it will have to travel straight for a short distance not 45 immediately.

Can I do either of these? Do I have to bring it up to code in these two locations, or is it grandfather so to speak?

I see no other vents for sewer line, just the vent pipe above each toilet in the two interior bathrooms, so bathroom tub and sink in each bathroom must be attached in walls to the two inch galvanized vent pipe if they are vented. I doubt they are attach to this pipe. Please help with any suggestions?
 

Sam Peace

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No ideas without actually seeing it, but NEITHER the low heel elbow or the toilet spacing was "legal" when your house was constructed.
I attached a sketch. the iron pipe is 4 inch, the 90 degree is 4inch and it definately has a low heel, and a galvanized 2 inch pipe is attached.

I will look again for vents, but the only ones I remember are four: one by sink - amd sink is plumbed to a grease trap and not a the septic. And three others which are all right behind a toilet and are about as high as the crown of the roof decking.
 

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Cacher_Chick

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Sometimes projects that seem like they will be minor end up being major. To do yours right is going to take a new job plan and more work than you had thought.

I would start by ignoring the existing installation and sketch a proper isometric plumbing diagram with proper drains and vents for all of the bath fixtures.
 
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