Moving laundry to the 1st floor - need ideas

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice' started by TristanP, Apr 20, 2010.

  1. TristanP

    TristanP New Member

    Messages:
    10
    Location:
    Delaware
    First post - hopefully this isn't too overwhelming. We bought a 1960s era 2 story with full basement back in 2008. My wife is getting tired of lugging laundry (2 kids) up and down two flights of stairs every week, so I'm redoing part of the office area on the first floor to make life easier. When we moved in, we bought a matching set of LG front loaders (electric dryer) which have been great. I've done a little plumbing work in the past (biggest job was replacing the electric water heater in our previous house), but this will be the largest job I've attempted to date. I think I have the basics (including code considerations) in mind but would appreciate any and all feedback. On to the layout:

    The room is about 13 x 10.5

    [​IMG]

    A Sketchup rendering of my preliminary plan:

    [​IMG]

    I spent some time this past weekend removing some electrical and the drywall (perfect 4x8 section) and here's what I'm dealing with:

    [​IMG]

    View looking up from the basement - main stack is now on the far right

    [​IMG]

    Wall is double 2x4s to allow room for the HVAC and piping. Main stack on the left is 3" cast iron. The vent stack in the third bay from left is 1.5" galvanized and services all three bathrooms. This wall backs to a full bath. Running the electrical lines for the washer and drier should be easy. Dryer vent will exit to the outside on the left wall. The plumbing I'm not quite sure on.

    I'd like to use a Sioux Chief Ox Box or similar to give enough room for the 2" drain for the washer. My thought was to put the supply side in the first bay and the drain in the second and send it over to the galvanized drain. Then I measured it and it's 1.5" at that point. It extends another 8" into the basement and turns 90* to become a 2" drain. Can I replace the lower section of the 1.5" galvanized with 2" PVC to handle the washer or do I need to tap into the 3" stack on the left?

    Next, would tapping the copper supply lines with PEX be a problem? I think it would make routing the lines to the washer much easier (plus, new tools are awesome).

    I'll be building some sort of platform to both raise the units to a better height (we didn't buy the overpriced pedestals) and incorporate a floor drain that will be piped directly down to the sump pump (just in case).

    Last, if I tie the washer and utility sink drains into the 2" PVC (replacing the 1.5" galvanized there now), what does the the height difference between the two have to be? I think I remember reading 6" somewhere?

    Thanks for making it this far. If anything is unclear, just ask.
  2. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    27,247
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    1. You CANNOT connect to the 3" stack on the left
    2. You are assuming that after you change the riser to 2", which would be necessary, that the 2" horizontal drain in the basement will be adequate for the flow.
    3. Your washer trap tee will have to be below the tee for the sink on the other side.
    4. You will have to insure that the height of the washer drain standpipe, does not exceed the maximum permitted by your code. Usually 24" to 30" above the trap.
    5. Requirements #3 and #4 may be mutually exclusive so that you cannot do BOTH.
  3. TristanP

    TristanP New Member

    Messages:
    10
    Location:
    Delaware
    1. Curious as to why not?
    2. Why wouldn't it be?
    3. What is the recommended vertical separation distance or can they be stacked?
    4. DE uses the 2006 IPC code, so that makes it 18-42" above the trap, right?
    5. I have some measuring to do, but I think it'll work

    Thanks for the feedback.
  4. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,416
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    If you have a 3" stack in the basement, you should be able to add a tee there, and run a 2" line to the next floor where the washer will be.
    You will need to vent the washer drain, and tie the vent back into the existing 1.5" galvanized vent in that wall above the flood level of the washer.

    You can branch off with PEX or copper for the washer valves.
    I would install hammer arrestors with them too.
  5. TristanP

    TristanP New Member

    Messages:
    10
    Location:
    Delaware
    Another pic for confirmation:

    [​IMG]

    The stack is actually 4" in the basement and reduces to 3" as soon as it enters the first floor. Should I T (sani needed or just regular?) into the 14" section of 4" CI that I highlighted, replace all the 1.5" galvanized there as 2" PVC, and cap off the 1.5" at the elbow?

    Venting the new 2" PVC washer drain to the old 1.5" galv won't be an issue?

    Yes, I will be getting arrestors with whatever washer box I decide on.

    Thanks Terry.
  6. Terry

    Terry Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,416
    Location:
    Bothell, Washington
    If you cut in a washer, it will need to go in below the 4" tee for the toilet.

    You can't wet vent a washer into the closet arm for the toilet.
    The 2" line coming off is already full.

    A new tee or wye below the 4" santee, and you can bring a new 2" line up from that.

    [​IMG]
    Last edited: Apr 21, 2010
  7. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    27,247
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    1. Curious as to why not?

    Because it is probably the drain for the upstairs bathroom.
    2. Why wouldn't it be?

    Because horizonatal drains have more resistance than verical ones, and if that tapped closet bend has 1 1/2" openings you cannot change it to 2" without a major piping revision.

    3. What is the recommended vertical separation distance or can they be stacked?

    The washer CANNOT go above the sink connection because of hydraulic flow characteristics.

    4. DE uses the 2006 IPC code, so that makes it 18-42" above the trap, right?

    Putting the washer opening UNDER the sink opening, and then going upwards to a point maybe 60" above the floor because of your platform may make the riser longer than those parameters.

    5. I have some measuring to do, but I think it'll work

    I think you have a LOT of plumbing work to do, NOT measuring.
  8. TristanP

    TristanP New Member

    Messages:
    10
    Location:
    Delaware
    Thank you both for the replies. Is the following correct?

    [​IMG]
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