Moving a roughed in shower valve body?

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Zoltan

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My plumber roughed in a Delta shower valve body last week, and is unfortunately on vacation this week. When I started hanging the cement board yesterday I realized the valve is sitting currently 1/4" too far forward.

My question is, do the copper lines running to the valve need to be redone to accommodate moving it back 1/4", or can I simply move the stringer and valve back and just flex the copper pipes by that much? The copper comes up through the floor behind the tub, comes up about a foot before it T's off for the vanity's supply, and then continues up about another foot and a half before terminating at the valve.
 

Jadnashua

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Keep in mind that the min/max on the position are so that the trim will fit...this does not mean that you'll like the actual position. Between that min/max, the handle will move in and out...many people do not like the handle out at the max. 1/4" may or may not be enough for your preference, but it will work when between the two marks...so, suggest you install the trim temporarily and mock up the wall thickness to see if you'll like it there.
 

Zoltan

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I moved the stringer back 1/4" and I can fairly easily push the valve back to screw it back onto the stringer. There's some resistance, but I'm not having to really push on it.
 

Reach4

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I would add some shims to take up the extra space before tightening things back.
 

Tom Sawyer

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I would read the rough in instructions on the valve and be sure that it isn't in the right place now.
 

Zoltan

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It's a Delta valve and the instructions say the plaster guard should be flush or a 1/4" sub flush with the finished wall surface. Moving the valve back 1/4" would make it flush with the finished wall.
 

hj

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The person who wrote the instructions has probably NEVER installed one, and may not have actually seen one either. The Delta valve has LOT more than a 1/4" tolerance in OR out.
 

Zoltan

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On a mildly related note. I have a Kohler Villager tub installed. It's fully supported by the four feet (that took a lot of shimming, contorting, and grunting) and by a 2x4" ledger. The apron's edge sits about 1/2" off the subfloor with the floor tile coming up to 1/8" of it and silicone bridging the gap. The tub is pinned to the ledger and wall by two 2.5" deck screws driven into the studs. Those deck screws should be adequate, correct? I don't want anything shifting once the tile is up.
 
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