Mounting shower/tub valve

Discussion in 'Shower & bathtub Forum & Blog' started by gitngoin, Feb 20, 2007.

  1. gitngoin

    gitngoin New Member

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    west coast
    No dumb questions right....;)

    When installing a single handle shower/tub valve how is the valve secured to the framing. The valve does not have "ears" on it. Do the pipes secure the valve?

    Also, if the pipes (copper) hold the valve the straps are copper....are steel nails used? I know the straps must be copper to avoid the dissimular metals problems but what about the nails or screws that hold the straps. No dumb questions right?

    Thanks in advance!

    Michael
  2. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    21,917
    Location:
    New England
    Strap it with the clamps. Screws should last longer than you probably want to keep the thing unless it regularly gets wet. Condensation would speed it up, but inside a wall, there isn't usually that much humidity.
  3. Racer814

    Racer814 New Member

    Messages:
    124
    they usually come with a mounting plate that secures the valve to the cover plate but I prefer to secure it to the framing .....will give the valve and esp. fiberglass enclosures a much more solid feel........
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2007
  4. chassis

    chassis Engineer

    Messages:
    339
    Location:
    SE Pennsylvania
    You can also secure the supply risers directly to the framing with clamps/straps. You don't need ears or mounting features on the valve body itself.
  5. gitngoin

    gitngoin New Member

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    west coast
    Thanks Chassis......

    Is the slip on tub spout the way to go or should I go with a brass NPT nipple? I tend to prefer the old ways of doing things but if the slip on is proven I'll do it.

    TIA
  6. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    21,917
    Location:
    New England
    The slip on's work fine. Just, don't tighten the setscrew too tight, or you'll make it harder to get a replacement to seal when the time comes since it can distort the pipe. They make it much easier to get the projection just right. The screw on jobs work fine, too, but take more skill to install so that they tighten up with no gaps.
  7. gitngoin

    gitngoin New Member

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    west coast
    Bending copper pipe??

    Hello again.....hey pros, is it o.k. to heat and bend copper pipe to align pipes in the walls framing.....nothings perfect when adding new to old and a bit of "cheating" is needed.;)

    TIA
  8. gitngoin

    gitngoin New Member

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    west coast
    Single handle valve height

    I have a single handle shower/tub valve and the instructions (I read them;) ) show an installation height of 26". Well, this old tired back wants this shower to be nice and easy...I want to install the valve at a height of 36 to 40". Is there any problem doing this? The valve includes a diverter.

    Thanks much!

    Oh....can you bend copper pipe without any future problems???

    Michael
  9. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    21,917
    Location:
    New England
    Put it at whatever height you want. Bending the pipe is not recommended.
  10. gitngoin

    gitngoin New Member

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    west coast
    What is the reason for not bending copper pipe? If it is heated the chance of fracture in very small.

    I'm in a bit of a bind on this "little" remodel. Need to "tweak" the pipe a bit.

    Michael
  11. coz

    coz New Member

    Messages:
    91
    Location:
    MA
    valve

    when you bend pipe you stretch out the walls making them thin. secure the pipes to the side studs with pipe clips about a foot down from valve. cut 2 blocks shaped like doorstoppers to fit snug between the pipe and the fiberglass and clip the pipe to the block (on the shower head pipe and at the tub spout)then when you tighten the faceplate it will hold the blocks. Thats how Ive done it for the past 20 years.
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