more money than cents and tank size

Discussion in 'Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog' started by jmoser, Dec 15, 2012.

  1. jmoser

    jmoser New Member

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    Sacramento
    i need to replace my tank a few months ago. long story as to why i'm just not asking the 2 local well companies.
    well is 140' deep, pump at 124'. 1.5hp pump, 4" casing. Old big galvanized tank, ?80gallons
    iirc, 12gpm using the "time how long to filla 5 gal bucket" method thru a spigot. Live on 5 acres, currently just irrigating less than oneut an acre--1/2 acre landscaped and misc small gardens and lawn.
    Last edited: Dec 15, 2012
  2. wondering

    wondering New Member

    Messages:
    105
    You will want to get a tank big enough that your pump will run at least a minute during cycles OR go with the small "pside-kick" that gives you constant pressure and keeps your pump from cycling on/off making it last longer.

    Someone with more knowledge than me will be along and can explain all that better--but I do know with just a pump and tank the bigger the tank the better as far as making the pump last longer,plus dont get a cheap tank. I have Well-X-Trol tanks myself and havent had any problems with them.
  3. LLigetfa

    LLigetfa DIYer, not in the trades

    Messages:
    3,900
    Location:
    NW Ontario, Canada
    Presumably then it also has some sort of air maker that then needs consideration WRT what it replaces.
  4. jmoser

    jmoser New Member

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    Sacramento
    my pump cycles constantly, draining it doesn't change anything. never pumped in air, well companies haven[t done it in the past either. there is that vibrating in my house plumbing, which happens many times per minute, more if you flush the toilet etc. afraid to take a bath, darnit.and since the contractor incorrectly installed some pex tubing im worried the tubing will fail where it connects to the fittings.
    the air valve thing about 20' down is clogged. there's 20ft galvanized tubing from the tank to the copper supply lines, no dielectric union. when i turn off water to the house and drain the lines, then turn on all the plumbing fixtures, there is more than 5 min of rusty water runs. so many gallons i cant believe it till it clears. when clear water has no odor, tastes good, cheap water test kit everythings negative. do get some rust sediment at the bottom of my teakettle after 2 weeks or so of water sitting in kettle, no rust staining in my sinks etc.
    had a hole in my casing about 18 months ago which was causing the pump to run continuously, so replaced pump at that time since they were down there. new pump has had much more abuse than the old one.

    id like to just replace the tank and see what happens. if i have to replace the clogged airvalve, would consider replacing the pump if recommended just because of the labor involved with pulling up the casing.
    have been recommended wait to install dielectric union till i replace the galvanized supply pipe from the tank.
    i'd pay for the wellx-trol constant supply 85 gal tank, especially as it is comes relatively "ready to install'.

    http://www.pexsupply.com/Amtrol-WX1...l-WELL-X-TROL-Well-X1-Well-Tank-Standard-Blue

    he cost is not prohibitive, but its stupid if its wrong for my application. i dont care if its overkill so long as it works well as i fix the other problems, even adding a second tank in line for increased irrigtion, but don't want to limit my options with future improvements. also i have heard some criticism of the "constant pressure" unit on that tank.
    i want a quick fix for my current problem of frequent cycling and vibration.

    thats alot of information, but what do you think? If i install the tank and have to fix the other problems immediately instead of a little later, will this tank still be a useful addition?
    Last edited: Dec 15, 2012
  5. LLigetfa

    LLigetfa DIYer, not in the trades

    Messages:
    3,900
    Location:
    NW Ontario, Canada
    If your air maker doesn't work then a captive air tank would help with your waterlogged issue. No air in, no air out so no problem then of spitting air knocking a glass out of your hand. You didn't say why you need to replace the tank. If your tank doesn't leak, why not just fix the air maker or simply pump air into it with a compressor periodically?

    A CSV would solve your cycling problem but if there is a bleeder in the line, it might be best to remove it.
  6. jmoser

    jmoser New Member

    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    Sacramento
    im thinking replace the tank d/t likely rust, improved efficiency, and perhaps the airmaker would stay clogged and id avoid the cost of replacing it until later date when the pump needs replacement or other issue in the well.
    i'd prefer to pay for better equipment than labor at this time. but if i have to do both, then i do
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