Modifying existing pipe

[altadata]

Hi
I have 2 problems similar in nature.
1) I need to install a Y fitting in a already existing 3 inch vertical pipe that runs from the basement floor up into the first floor.
If I cut this pipe, how can I insert the Y fitting, since I cannot move the upper part or lower part of the pipe?

2) I need to install a Y fitting into an already existing 3 inch horizontal pipe underneath the basement floor. If I cut this pipe, ow can I insert the Y fitting into the pipe, since I cannot move the left and right parts of the pipe?

Forgot to mention - all are plastic pipes.

Thanks.

 

[Gary Swart]

You use a banded coupler to make the finial connection. Be sure to use a banded coupler and not a neoprene sleeve. These are similar, but the sleeve is for buried connections and does not offer the ridged connection that the banded coupler will.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[altadata]

You use a banded coupler to make the finial connection. Be sure to use a banded coupler and not a neoprene sleeve. These are similar, but the sleeve is for buried connections and does not offer the ridged connection that the banded coupler will.

I do have a buried connection ( the horizontal pipe is under the basement floor ) - I'm not sure if this is what you meant by buried connection.

The other pipe ( the vertical one ) is not buried.

So which one I should use for which?

 

[Jadnashua]

You'll need two of each...the banded ones for the connection above ground, and the unbanded ones for below grade. Make sure that you backfill properly to keep the ends aligned.

The banded ones have a stop in the middle so you can't slide it out of the way, but if you slide the band back along the pipe, you can fold the sleeve back and then get the pipe in position then unfold it and slide the band over and tighten.

 

[altadata]

I also read about "repair coupling", the one that does not have a stop in the midle, you slide it on one pipe, put cement and slide it over.
I feel more comfortable with these. Can I use these in both cases ( above and below )?

 

[Terry]

I also read about "repair coupling", the one that does not have a stop in the midle, you slide it on one pipe, put cement and slide it over.

Maybe you could do that with a 2" or smaller pipe, the glue sets up pretty quickly on the bigger sizes. If you think while you are doing it, it will slow you down too much to finish it.

The no-hub couplings give you more time.

 

[altadata]

Are these code approved and
does Home Depot have them? If not, who has them?
And finally can I use them buried under the basement floor?
Thx.

 

[SewerRatz]

These are code approved in most areas. Here in Illinois they want the banded couplings for above and below ground repairs.

 

[altadata]

When using this Proflex coupling, what is the max distance between the 2 pipe ends? Can it be 1.5 inch ( the distance of the sleeve of a 3 inch diameter pipe )? This way I can cut the pipe to fit a Y fitting, slide and glue ne end of the fitting and use the Proflex to connect at the other end?

 

[SewerRatz]

When using this Proflex coupling, what is the max distance between the 2 pipe ends? Can it be 1.5 inch ( the distance of the sleeve of a 3 inch diameter pipe )? This way I can cut the pipe to fit a Y fitting, slide and glue ne end of the fitting and use the Proflex to connect at the other end?

You slide the coupling out of your way and you cut the pipe in to where their is no gap between what you are installing and the existing pipe. The pic is of clay pipe but you should get the idea.

 

[Gary Swart]

If you slide the coupling clear over the pipe before you cut the last piece to length, you can have virtually no space between. I would try to fit the pipe as close as possible.

 

[NHmaster]

You can use pvc slip (repair) couplings and glue though it takes a bit of skill and fast hadns to get it in place before the glue sets up.

 

[hj]

joint

1. In many areas and under most codes the rubber couplings with hose clamps are NOT allowed inside the building, above OR below the floor.
2. You cannot leave a gap between the pipes. They must fit as close as possible inside the coupling.
3. A "repair coupling" sounds good in principle, but is almost impossible to install in practice.
4. I would be interested in knowing WHY you have to install 2 "Y"s. In many cases that would imply you were going to do something improperly, such as tie the vent from a basement bathroom back into the drain line.

 

[altadata]

1. In many areas and under most codes the rubber couplings with hose clamps are NOT allowed inside the building, above OR below the floor.
2. You cannot leave a gap between the pipes. They must fit as close as possible inside the coupling.
3. A "repair coupling" sounds good in principle, but is almost impossible to install in practice.
4. I would be interested in knowing WHY you have to install 2 "Y"s. In many cases that would imply you were going to do something improperly, such as tie the vent from a basement bathroom back into the drain line.

Do you mean that this proflex coupling with rubber on the inside and a steel layer on the outside is not code safe in many areas?

I'd like to know how you would make no gap between the endings that meet under the coupling, given that:

1) The original pipe cannot be moved. The upper end and lower end are not moveable!
2) the pipe is 3 inch diameter and such is not very flexible, especially since the portion to insert is of a short length ( if it was a very long piece to insert, it might be possible to slide one end into the sleeve, and push it, then cut the other end so that there is no gap )

One possibility if to have a gap of the size of the sleeve and then cut a small piece of pipe to insert in that gap perfectly. Then put the coupling in top of that. Would this be ok?

Thanks.

 

[altadata]

4. I would be interested in knowing WHY you have to install 2 "Y"s. In many cases that would imply you were going to do something improperly, such as tie the vent from a basement bathroom back into the drain line.

Here is a picture of what I'm trying to do ( bathroom in the basement ).
The red and blue portion are the proposed changes. Everything else is existing piping.
Please let me know if there is something wrong.
Thanks.

 

[Gary Swart]

I believe the connector HJ refers to that is not allowed inside a building is the neoprene sleeve with clamps on each end. The Proflex is a banded coupler and is approved.

 

[Gary Swart]

The washing machine has to a 2". Newer machines pump water out too fast for an 1-1/2" drain to handle.

 

[MACPLUMB]

Piping

And you need a 2" vent for your new toilet install per code

 

[altadata]

And you need a 2" vent for your new toilet install per code

I'm in Ontario and I beleive that 1.5" vent for closet is accepted, if I'm reading the plumbing code correctly.
Here is the section on the plumbing code that relates to this ( please see image ). I'm not using a wet vent and the table shows for a 3 inch trap I need minimum 1.5 inch vent.

 

[Gary Swart]

Not to imply the the US is smarter or better than Canada, but there are reasons our vent sizes are larger. Perhaps the Canadian codes don't require it at this time, but I would be surprised if at some future date they will. Why not go with the larger size since it will be easy to do now and the only expense will be the larger pipe. Same with the washer drain. We get calls for help on a fairly regular basis from people who are trying to use their old 1-1/2" washer drain with a new washer and are experiencing flooding.