Mansfield Sillcock and rusted handle screw

[Newbie0104]

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Hi folks,
I have a right handed (No L visible anywhere on hose connection) Mansfield 500 series sillcock. Like many others it is leaking from under the cog shaped on/off part of the valve. There is no water from the anti-siphon area (yet anyway). I have ordered a kit to replace the packing as I am hoping that will do the trick. The leak is slight but will drip every so often when on or off (under water pressure). I decided to try and remove the end of the valve and try to see if the packing was damaged/dirty etc. Unfortunately, the screw is rusted and it while it may just need some coaxing, I'm not sure how to continue. Should the valve be opened all the way before trying to remove this screw? I have thus far only tried holding the valve (wheel? handle?) still and turning the screw with a nut driver, but no success. I am nervous about opening the valve all the way and then just turning it to loosen the screw as that much torque on the sillcock doesn't seem healthy. I'm assuming the point of removing the end of the valve is so the guts can then be removed? Or is the idea to turn out the internals with the screw? Sorry for the lack of technical terms and I will try and clarify if any questions. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated!

 

[Kingsotall]

If the screw strips then drill it out and match up a new one from the hardware store. You will have water to this bibb shut off first I assume...

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Newbie0104]

Thanks for your reply!

Yes the water will be shut off.

I guess what I'm really trying to find out is do I open the valve to its' full extent (when it stops turning) and then turn the screw against it or should I try to hold the handle/wheel still and turn the screw out? I don't want to damage the valve itself by twisting too hard getting the screw out.

I will use a dremel to get the screw out if necessary.

 

[Cass]

Personaly I would return the kit and just replace the whole thing with a 1/4 turn hose bib...generaly speaking repairing a bib seldome works for very long.

 

[Newbie0104]

I have no doubt that replacement is a better long term solution. Sadly, I don't have any easy access to bib connection point and don't want to open the wall to get to it. Is there any way to tell if the bib is a screw in or solder connection without being able to see it or just tearing into it?

 

[Cass]

In my experience 99% are soldered in...even if it were screwed in you would still need to hold the female Adp. with a wrench while you turned the bib...

 

[Newbie0104]

So if I try to remove the screw to avoid having to open the wall...will twisting the screw against the wide open valve cause any harm to the valve's internals?

If so, I suppose I could try grabbing the handle with a wrench or locking pliers to hold it still while I socket the screw.