Loud thud/slapping noise after well pressure tank cut off at 60 psi

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willinnj

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I just moved into my new place and there is a weird noise within seconds after my pressure tank reaches its cut out point at 60 PSI.

It cuts in very quietly with a click.However, at the cut out point, I hear the click of the pressure switch and then a loud thud or slapping sound. Does anyone has any ideas why and if this is an issue that will cause bigger problems in the future? Do I need to get a well contractor to come in?

This is a video of the issue:

Water Pressure tank: WELL RITE TANK WR140R
Well Pump: STA RITE 3/4 HP Signature 2000 4" Submersible pump

Thanks!
 
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Reach4

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What do you have between the incoming water and the pressure tank? Your pressure gauge seems to be hooked into a big brass thing. If it is just a manifold, that is OK. But it is large to be a manifold. If it is a check valve, it would be best to remove that. Bring the well water directly to the connection of the pressure tank, pressure switch, and pressure gauge, with no checkvalve topside.

Mine is a Sta-rite 7SP4D02JL-04 Signature 2000 stainless steel 4" submersible pumps with 2000 date code first installed in 2002. I had it pulled this year due to some well work not related to pump performance (well casing extension), and I had the pump put back in. In 5 years I will know if I am glad I did not opt for a new pump while it was pulled.
 

willinnj

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What do you have between the incoming water and the pressure tank? Your pressure gauge seems to be hooked into a big brass thing. If it is just a manifold, that is OK. But it is large to be a manifold. If it is a check valve, it would be best to remove that. Bring the well water directly to the connection of the pressure tank, pressure switch, and pressure gauge, with no checkvalve topside.

Mine is a Sta-rite 7SP4D02JL-04 Signature 2000 stainless steel 4" submersible pumps with 2000 date code first installed in 2002. I had it pulled this year due to some well work not related to pump performance (well casing extension), and I had the pump put back in. In 5 years I will know if I am glad I did not opt for a new pump while it was pulled.

I do not think there is anything between the incoming water and pressure tank and the video kind of shows where the pipe comes in from the wall into the "big brass thing". I am not sure if it is a check valve. After this manifold/valve connection is a T connection to vertical pipe that leads to the pressure tank on the bottom and the house supply line on top. I will take a photo and post it tonight.

Thanks!
 

Craigpump

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That "big brass thing" is a control center. It is ported for gauges, snifter valves and pressure switches and it contains a check valve.

You might be able to remove that "big brass thing" depending on what style of tank you have, hydro pneumatic or diaphram/bladder.

The noise you hear is a check valve closing
 

Valveman

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I am pretty certain you have a problem with the check valve down the well. You can remove the guts from that check valve (control center) you have, which will either solve the problem or prove that you need to pull the pump. If the thump goes away, you solved the problem. If it is still thumping, you will need to pull the pump and replace the lower check valve. Then when you get the lower check working, you won’t need or want to put the guts back in the (control center/check valve).

But your video was only 7 seconds long. How long did it take to get to 60 PSI? If it is only a few seconds, you probably have a bad bladder tank. A bad bladder tank can cause the check valve to wear out, so you may have to fix both problems.

And I am assuming some of this because I am fairly sure that WR140R is a bladder tank and you don't have a Schrader valve in the control center?
 

willinnj

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I am pretty certain you have a problem with the check valve down the well. You can remove the guts from that check valve (control center) you have, which will either solve the problem or prove that you need to pull the pump. If the thump goes away, you solved the problem. If it is still thumping, you will need to pull the pump and replace the lower check valve. Then when you get the lower check working, you won’t need or want to put the guts back in the (control center/check valve).

But your video was only 7 seconds long. How long did it take to get to 60 PSI? If it is only a few seconds, you probably have a bad bladder tank. A bad bladder tank can cause the check valve to wear out, so you may have to fix both problems.

And I am assuming some of this because I am fairly sure that WR140R is a bladder tank and you don't have a Schrader valve in the control center?

Thanks for the replies!

It took approximately 60 seconds to go from 40 psi to 60.

I am a layman in this and do not know what a Schrader valve is but will read into it.

Is this a DIY project to pull the check valve from the control unit?

I called around and a well guy told me if there is no air when I turn on the taps and the thud is after it cuts out, it's most likely the check valve near the tank that is the issue and for him to come out and replaced it will be around $450-$500.

Seems that this checkvalve is required in my town.
 

willinnj

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image.jpg

Piping to pressure tank
image.jpg

The control unit
 

Reach4

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I am a layman in this and do not know what a Schrader valve is but will read into it.

The schrader valve is like what tires have. Yours is under the cover on the top of your tank near that yellow label. the cover probably unscrews CCW.

Seems that this checkvalve is required in my town.

This might be a good time to go DIY. I think I understood valveman to say that he recognized your unit, and that you could turn that unit into a simple manifold by taking parts out.
 
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LLigetfa

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The schrader valve is like what tires have. Yours is under the cover on the top of your tank near that yellow label. the cover probably unscrews CCW...
They are talking about a different valve, used for a different purpose. Hydro-pneumatic tanks often have an air maker system that consists of a bleeder in the well, and a snifter (could be a Shrader valve) between the bleeder and the checkvalve. It looks like a tire valve but has a weaker spring to open under suction.
 

willinnj

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How much???

Yes, $450+ ballpark figure as he says that it most likely will take 2 to 3 hours (plus trip fee) and the part is $60+.

Maybe I need to rethink my prices.

I called another two companies and both asked similar questions on whether there is air when I open the faucets and told me that it is most likely the check valve near the pressure tank. They told me to call back if there is other issues. I wonder if it is too small of a job for them to make the trip?
 
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willinnj

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The schrader valve is like what tires have. Yours is under the cover on the top of your tank near that yellow label. the cover probably unscrews CCW.

Thanks! I unscrewed it and did see a valve similar to what tires have.

This might be a good time to go DIY. I think I understood valveman to say that he recognized your unit, and that you could turn that unit into a simple manifold by taking parts out.

I may just have to do this since it seems that it is either going to cost me a lot of money from the company yesterday or it is too small of a job for two other companies. I am trying to find a youtube video on how to take out the valve but have not found any.

I called the previous owner and she told me that it has been this way since she took over the estate from her mom and that was over two years ago.

If it is still thumping, you will need to pull the pump and replace the lower check valve.

I found the Sta Rite manual and it seems that the pump was installed 10 years ago in November 2004. Therefore, if I need to pull the pump, would it be better to replace the pump instead of replacing the lower check valve?

Thanks!
 
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Valveman

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If your “town” requires that check valve, you need to DIY, take it out, and just not tell anyone. That same negative pressure that is causing the pop can easily draw contamination into that line and pass it on to your drinking water. Any fertilizer, weed killer, or dog poo close to a connection in the underground line will get sucked into that line during negative pressure.

And if that top check valve is not the problem, then it caused the problem. It has a plastic poppet inside that can easily be removed by taking out one screw. You just have to get the control center check valve out of the line to be able to get to it.

500 bucks for a 50 dollar check valve? No wonder so many people are DIYing.
 

willinnj

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If your “town” requires that check valve, you need to DIY, take it out, and just not tell anyone. That same negative pressure that is causing the pop can easily draw contamination into that line and pass it on to your drinking water. Any fertilizer, weed killer, or dog poo close to a connection in the underground line will get sucked into that line during negative pressure.

And if that top check valve is not the problem, then it caused the problem. It has a plastic poppet inside that can easily be removed by taking out one screw. You just have to get the control center check valve out of the line to be able to get to it.

500 bucks for a 50 dollar check valve? No wonder so many people are DIYing.

Thanks valveman!

Repeating a question that I had earlier:
I found the Sta Rite manual and it seems that the pump was installed 10 years ago in November 2004.

Therefore, if I need to pull the pump, would it be better to replace the pump instead of replacing the lower check valve (as I suspect that labor to pull the pump will be most of the costs)?

Thanks!
 

Reach4

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I may just have to do this since it seems that it is either going to cost me a lot of money from the company yesterday or it is too small of a job for two other companies.
How long is the trip?
I am trying to find a youtube video on how to take out the valve but have not found any.
That unit has female threads on each end. So if you saw out the pipe on the output, the unit should unscrew. I think putting it back will be a lot harder. I can't see an easy way to do that.

Here is an alternate idea: instead cut a few inches above and below the tee. Unscrew while rotating the tee. Put it back together with 2 repair couplings soldered in. I wonder how a plumber would do it.

Plug this in as a search into your favorite search engine:
"control center" well check valve
 
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willinnj

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How long is the trip?

The trip is less than 30 minutes each way for all three companies that I have contacted. Therefore, around one hour round trip.

That unit has female threads on each end. So if you saw out the pipe on the output, the unit should unscrew. I think putting it back will be a lot harder. I can't see an easy way to do that.

Here is an alternate idea: instead cut a few inches above and below the tee. Unscrew while rotating the tee. Put it back together with 2 repair couplings soldered in. I wonder how a plumber would do it.

Plug this in as a search into your favorite search engine:
"control center" well check valve

I may just call my plumber to see if he wants to help me remove it and put it back. He told me that he does not work with well units and doesn't want to leave me with no water when I called him a few days back -- before the current assessment that it is likely the check valve.

Thanks!
 

LLigetfa

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I wonder how a plumber would do it.
I'm no plumber but I would start by:
turning off the breaker
disconnect the wires to the switch
remove the switch and riser nipple
loosen hose clamps on poly
warm up the poly with hot water
unscrew the barb from the checkvalve
unscrew the checkvalve body
remove the guts
 

Craigpump

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Turn off the breaker, cut above n below the T with a tubing cutter, back the T out of the control center, unwire the control center, back the control center off the adapter, gut the control center and reassemble with sweat unions or Sharkbites if you can't sweat a joint.

All done in 45 minutes, $325-350 tops including tax.
 
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