Linear shower drain gap

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SCH

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There is a gap between tiles and linear shower drain grate. It seems as if there should be some type of flange or rubber seal because we can see mesh underneath the tiles. It really looks unfinished. Company says there is nothing that belongs in between. Does anybody have a fix for this? I'd appreciate any suggestions! Thank you!
 

JohnfrWhipple

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Gaps in Linear Drains

The only thing you see between the tile and the tile grate on an ACO drain is beautiful electropolished stainless steel.

No mesh.

No thin-set

No grout

No Waterproofing

Before anyone buys a new linear drain - ask for some close up pictures like this one I took a few years back of the drain base - inside. Notice how amazing this drain looks (That's the Electropolishing Effect). That there is an option hair strainer as well!

No shocker ACO is the World Leader in Drainage Products.

modern-showers.jpg
 
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dedalus

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In preparing to install a flangeless linear drain myself, I've been mulling this exact issue. My understanding is that you need the LD outlet to fit into a puddle flange. The waterproofing membrane is applied over the tile substrate and into and over the lip of the puddle flange. This flange then collects any below-tile seepage and directs it through the puddle flange's weep holes and on into the main sub-floor drain pipe. If your installation relies only on some kind of silicone filler between the LD and the tile edging, I'd be concerned. Others might add to this, as it's only my opinion as a DIYer.
 

JohnfrWhipple

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Preventing Gaps in a Linear Shower Drain Installation - ACO's compression coupling

You have two things going on. You need a two piece clamping drain with your ACO linear drain (plain edge model). You have decided to use Hydro Ban (directed to Dedalus and his other post) as the waterproofing so this needs to tie into the clamping drain. This happens between the lower and upper pieces. The Hydro Ban gets sandwiched between the two.

Now how you do this is key.

I used a little NobleSeal TS on this shower build. The Hydro Ban was only back up to a NobleSeal TS bonded shower ban liner.

After a three week flood test (got kicked out of the job by the drywallers) I came back to install a simple liner drain over top. That is another leading drain shown in the picture and one we stopped using ages ago because of a few hygiene issues... Another reason to stop was the gaps between the drain and the collar. You can see large gaps there.



To prevent mortar from dropping into the drain line ACO has made a little compression gasket for their drain. Have a look...

This gasket (grey in color) comes with the White (PVC) or Black (Cast Iron) versions of the two piece clamping drain.
 
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JohnfrWhipple

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In preparing to install a flangeless linear drain myself, I've been mulling this exact issue. My understanding is that you need the LD outlet to fit into a puddle flange. The waterproofing membrane is applied over the tile substrate and into and over the lip of the puddle flange. This flange then collects any below-tile seepage and directs it through the puddle flange's weep holes and on into the main sub-floor drain pipe. If your installation relies only on some kind of silicone filler between the LD and the tile edging, I'd be concerned. Others might add to this, as it's only my opinion as a DIYer.

Silicone with a liner over what you call the puddle flange would be for something like a typical rubber liner. I believe Laticrete has a reference somewhere to this as well but I don't like blocking those lower weep holes so I have never followed their spec exactly.

The most bullet proof tie in to a two piece drain is with Noble Company's NobleSeal TS or NobleFlex Flashing. You get a bondable membrane and 30 mil's of thickness. From there I have gone many different routes. When I bond Noble's products to a clamping drain I use their sealant NobleSealant 150.

Look into these two products

I believe another competitor to Noble Company makes one but I have never been able to find one or purchase it. Looks like this:​
 
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