lengthing/moving 110V wire

Discussion in 'Electrical Forum discussion & Blog' started by DanMc, Aug 27, 2013.

  1. DanMc

    DanMc Engineer

    Messages:
    27
    Location:
    Georgia
    I would like to add a recessed light, a couple in fact, in the ceiling of my 1st floor study. For a short time I have access from above because the flooring is being replaced on the second floor. The problem i have is that there is a wire, 14/2 nm, running through the joists on its way to a 2nd floor wall outlet and it would end up touching or an inch away from the can. Doesn't feel right. Replacing the whole thing would be very painful as this is an existing install and i do not plan on cutting into 2nd floor walls. Is it acceptable to cut the wire and splice in another 24 inches or so using a junction box at each end and wire nuts? That would be enough to avoid the light can. I think the wire feeds a single 15 amp dual-outlet but there may be two.

    tthanks
  2. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

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    AS long as the junction boxes are accessible, which I an not sure if they would be in your situation.
  3. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
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    Location:
    New England
    What type of can is it? If it's an IC type, since that can be In Contact with insulation, an inch is more than enough. If not, then you'd have to read the spec sheet to see what the minimum spacing to other objects.
  4. DanMc

    DanMc Engineer

    Messages:
    27
    Location:
    Georgia
    Jim: they are not IC cans. The small junction box on the can is at the end of a metal bracket about 3--4 inches long. The box and bracket are an integral part of the can.

    hj: these would be new boxes. I am thinking something like cut the existing wire where it crosses a joist. Then add a junction box on each loose end one joist over. Then i would have to add a new wire between the two. I would have access because i can lift the subfloor for about two weeks before new floors come.
  5. jwelectric

    jwelectric Electrical Contractor/Instructor

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    The boxes will have to be accessible after the new floor is installed. It isn't going to look to good with a box cover in the floor.

    I have never seen a light fixture that would be noticed if they were moved three inches away from their original point
  6. DanMc

    DanMc Engineer

    Messages:
    27
    Location:
    Georgia
    jw: ah. I understand. You are correct, to make them permanently accessible would not really be possible in this case without it being really ugly. it seems a different spot may be my only option. was trying to keep it centered relative to some windows and in the same relationship as other lights but that may just not be practical. thanks for the help. I appreciate it. Stupid question, why is permanently accessible a requirement? might stick in my head better than just remembering a rule...
  7. jwelectric

    jwelectric Electrical Contractor/Instructor

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    Everywhere a joint, splice or termination is made is a point on the wiring system trouble can be therefore it must be done in a manner that would allow access to that point.
  8. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

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    quote; I would have access because i can lift the subfloor for about two weeks before new floors come.

    What about after 2 YEARS? That is when you might have problems, not two weeks.
  9. Stuff

    Stuff Member

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    Location:
    Pennsylvania
  10. Homeownerinburb

    Homeownerinburb New Member

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    Location:
    Los Angeles, CA USA
    Dan,

    I have used one of these ONCE.

    I gotta say, they are engineered to a fair-thee-well.

    If you want to ask your local building dept if it is OK to use them in your plan, go ahead.

    But JW has a better idea: move the light slightly. And why not buy Insulation Contact fixtures? They can CERTAINLY be set an inch away from some NM.
  11. jwelectric

    jwelectric Electrical Contractor/Instructor

    Messages:
    2,566
    Location:
    North Carolina
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