Leaks in poly/barbed joints

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Guy48065

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I replaced my pressure tank and I'm left with a bunch of minor leaks. My well pipe is 1" poly that goes through a couple elbows before connecting to the tank Tee barbed fitting. I heated the new poly pieces and pushed them over the barbs, then clamped with a worm-screw type hose clamp like what was done originally. Drip, drip, drip despite incrementally reefing on the clamps trying to stop it.
What can I do to make the drips stop?
 

Craigpump

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You either over heated the pipe and cut it with the clamps or didn't get it warm enough to properly compress around the insert adapter.

I never reuse old fittings and I warm the pipe until it's plyable but not too soft.

Pvc, nylon or brass all work about the same, but brass is much stronger and makes for a better job, plus it has sharper edges to bite into the poly which makes me sleep better knowing it isn't going to blow apart.
 

Guy48065

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I have a nylon barbed elbow that's original, a grey one, and a brass one on the tank Tee. I think the brass one sealed ok. Heated them all the same, with a propane torch, just till a little shiny and then pressed them on. I could see the bulge of the barbs. Waited a few seconds before putting on the clamps centered over the barbs. Clamps did not cut in --all leaks are seeping out the ends.

Should I have used a glue or a sealant?
 
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Craigpump

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Nothing sticks to poly, so glues or sealants won't help

You shouldn't need two clamps to get a seal, but if you use two clamps put them on so they tighten up from opposite directions

Throw away the used nylon and pvc insert adapters and replace with brass
 

Craigpump

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We use poly pipe all the time for this type of work and have been for years.

You have to warm the pipe up up so its kinda soft, a little heat on the inside, a little heat outside until the insert adapter slides in without too much effort. Put your clamp on nice n tight and you're good to go
 

Guy48065

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Considering how short that poly stub is--should I leave well enough alone? The pipe isn't supported by dirt on the other side--it's the inaccessible space under my porch.
 

Guy48065

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THAT joint doesn't leak. .. and hasn't since 1972. The others I'm not afraid of.

Would a pro disturb it -- considering the downside?
 

Reach4

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We use poly pipe all the time for this type of work and have been for years.

You have to warm the pipe up up so its kinda soft, a little heat on the inside, a little heat outside until the insert adapter slides in without too much effort. Put your clamp on nice n tight and you're good to go

Are you heating with a torch or a heat gun? Do you think dipping the pipe into hot water would be sufficient to get the pipe pliable enough to put the fitting barb in? That would seem safer for somebody with less experience.

Is dish soap a good idea as a lube to help get the barb in?

How hard would it be to over-tighten the clamp?
 

Craigpump

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Heat is heat whether it's from a heat gun, torch, hot water....it will do the same thing. Plus, it's hard and probably dangerous to dip a pipe that's horizontal into hot water.

It's hard to over tighten a SS clamp because they will strip if torqued up too far.

If you have to use soap as a lube, it isn't warm enough and may blow apart.
 

Craigpump

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If you can't control the distance between your torch and work, then you shouldn't be doing the job. Kinda like driving and blaming the guy ahead of you for your inability to stop before hitting him.
 

Guy48065

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My driving analogy might be along the lines of giving an inexperienced driver the keys to an Escort vs a 350R. Potentially different results.

No matter -- the job is done. Double-sealed, double-clamped and gorilla-tight. No leaks.

I appreciate the tips -- especially the double-clamping. I've never seen that before.
 
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