Leaking Toilet Bowl

[onenonlydano]

I just replaced my toilet. I cleaned the area up like it said. When i went to put the new toilet on. I put the wax ring that came with the toilet flat end on the toilet. When i went to place the toilet on i never had to seat the toilet to the flange. It just sat flat on the ground. When i flush the toilet i get water leaking out of the front of the toilet, but the back is dry. Did i do something wrong. Also how tight can i go with the flange bolts. When i cut the old ones off the flange dropped.

 

[Gary Swart]

Here's what I suspect. The flange is recessed below the floor level. This means the wax ring was not quite thick enough to create a seal. You can buy a thicker ring and that should do it. Do not get the ring that has a plastic funnel built into it, just a plain wax ring. When the toilet is set in place, it should contact the wax ring before the skirt touches the floor. Use you body weight to force the horn on the base of the toilet into the wax until the skirt is in full contact with the floor. The flange bolts are not intended to do pull the toilet into the wax, they are just to hold the toilet from tipping. Tighten the nuts snug but not cinched down. If this is not the cure, please come back. Pictures might help.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Jadnashua]

You have a second problem...the flange MUST be solidly attached to the subflooring. If it dropped away when you cut the bolts (how with the nuts on?), you've got problems there.

Attach the flange to the floor so it doesn't move, assess where it sits relative to the height of the floor (it should sit on TOP of the finished floor), then get back. Some people put a second nut on the flange bolts, one to hold the bolt on the flange, and a second to hold the toilet to the bolt. A properly installed flange sits about 1/4" or so above the floor. If yours sits lower, you'll either need a thicker wax ring or flange extenders to finish the job. A better choice is to reset the flange where it should be, but you should be able to get a good seal without that.

If the toilet rocks once set, you need to reset with a new wax ring and shim it so it doesn't rock. The wax won't rebound, and once squished down, will then leave a gap when it rocks back.

 

[onenonlydano]

The flange was even with the top of the floor. The nuts and bolts were rusted and turned the whole bolt, that is why i cut them. I am gonna dry a thicker wax ring.

 

[Gary Swart]

I certainly agree with jdnashua that the flange must be screwed down. Proper installation calls for the flange to rest on top of the finished floor and be anchored to the sub floor. I recommend #12 stainless steel screws that are long enough to go through the flange holes, the finished floor and the sub floor. Sometimes through new flooring, or ignorance the flange is recessed and that is where the thicker wax ring can save the day. If the flange is not level, then you have a leak waiting to happen. In that case, the flange should be replaces properly.

 

[onenonlydano]

I placed the thicker wax ring made for recessed flange. It did seat this time. How tight is to tight for the flange bolts.

 

[Gary Swart]

Just snug! As I explained in my first answer to you, flange bolts are only to hold the toilet from moving, they are not used to pull the toilet down into the wax.

 

[Jadnashua]

Many places want you to add caulk between the edge of the toilet and the floor. This does two things, makes it harder to move, and prevents spills (and more important-misses!) from finding their way underneath the toilet. Some like Polyseamseal, since you can get it off easier than say silicon when the time comes to pull it again.