Leaking pressure reducing valve

[Jwray]

I was helping my father-in-law out with some home repairs over the holidays. After we were done he lead me to the mechanical closet in the basement where the water main comes in.

The main comes in vertically through the concrete slab and after going through a shutoff valve and an odd meter arrangement enters a Watts pressure reducing valve. All the pipe is copper and everything for a couple of feet below the input of the Watts valve has a nice green patina.

There is obvious evidence that the union fitting at the valve input has a slow leak. I'm thinking I can fix that with some pipe dope on the threads. Should this do it?

However on closer inspection the corrosion is also evident above the union, but more isolated. I think I narrowed it down to a plug on the side of the valve opposite the bell shaped cover (would be the bottom if the valve were installed horizontally). The corrosion here is mostly green as well, but also has some white fluffy corrosion. I think this plug may be for a strainer?

The house was built in the late 70's and this is all original.

Is there any way to repair the leaky Watts valve or am I going to have to replace it?

Also, the original installation was done with no thought toward this eventual situation. The Watts valve is in a stud bay open on the mechanical closet side, but sealed with drywall behind it. The valve is pretty snug against the drywall and the plug side of the valve is within an inch or less of a stud. The input side of the valve has a union connector, but the output side is female pipe threads (with no room to rotate the valve off of these threads b/c of the drywall and stud ). If the plug leak is repairable I may have to remove the valve to do it which means I'll have to cut the pipe on the output side and intall a union fitting there for the reinstall.

Thanks in advance for your help. If I can get this resolved my father-in-law will really be impressed.

Thanks,

Joel

 

[Deb]

Deb

It doesn't sound like things were tightened correctly in the first place. You may find (especially if no pipe dope or tape was ever used) that you may not be able to get these connections apart--be prepared for anything. Make sure to use 2 wrenches and back up the stationary fittings. If the corrosion has not eaten the metal away too much, everything should be repairable. What is on the other side of the wall--the drywall side? Can you cut an access hole and cover with an access panel cover?
Be aware that when a novice works on old corroded plumbing it is just as easy (easier?) to end up looking a fool as it is the hero. This is their main. If you do not feel comfortable sweating a union in this confined space, call a plumber.
Deb
The Pipewench

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Jwray]

Deb,

Thanks for your reply and your cautionary notes. I'm comfortable with working in the cramped space, just would like to get a hold of the short-sighted individual that put the darn stud so close to everything!!

Cutting an access hole on the other side is probably out as it would be in an unsightly location in the bathroom on the other side of the wall. Unfortuately the bathroom is wallpapered, but too long ago to have extra to dress up the panel.

Any advice on stopping the leak from the plug at the bottom of the Watts valve. I've since done a little research on the valve and found that the seals look to be replacable, but I don't know if they make the replacement parts for this old valve. Will have to inquire of Watts.

Good point on the leaky corroded connection being a bear to separate.

Would I be better off to consider just cutting out the whole valve and putting in a new one with a union connection on each end?

Thanks,

Joel

 

[Deb]

Deb

Yes.
The PRV is old (although I run into ancient ones that are still operating fine) and corroded and rebuilding is sometimes tougher than replacing. If this was my home, I would replace it.
Deb
The Pipewench

 

[ChrisMc]

slight leak

Hi!

I just noticed my pressure reducing valve is wet around the seams of where the bell end connects to the pipe. There's been some slight dripping into the cabinet as well.

The inside guts were replaced about 2.5 years ago when I had my water heater replaced. The plumber thought it would be easier than trying to replace the whole valve as my original builder made a mess of the plumbing underneath my sink (which is where the main shutoff is).

Could it need tightened? Could it have failed so soon?

Thanks!
Chris