Laundry Room. Sink and Washing machine on adjacent walls with stack at corner

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice' started by bryankloos, Mar 31, 2012.

  1. bryankloos

    bryankloos New Member

    Messages:
    6
    Location:
    MA
    Hey Guys,

    I currently have a 4" soil stack running vertically from the 1st floor to the basement floor near the corner wall of the laundry room I am building.
    I want to plumb a sink and washing machine, both about 5 feet out from the corner of the room where the current 4" soil stack is.

    I'm wondering if I can tie into the 4" soil stack with a 4x4x2" wye. From there I would run another 2x2x2" wye horizontally and run drain down each wall. With this configuration, both the washing machine and the sink drains would tie together horizontally and then use a very short common 2" line to where they tie into the 4" stack. Is this acceptable, or do I need to have each drain (washer and sink) dump into the 4" stack independently.

    I would of course use 2" vents near the p traps on each drain which would tie into the existing 2" vent running parallel to the 4" soil stack.

    Any thoughts?
  2. cacher_chick

    cacher_chick Test, Don't Guess!

    Messages:
    3,249
    Location:
    Land of Cheese
    Isn't MA one of those state that requires one to have a plumbing license?

    Normally when a horizontal branch drain runs into a stack, it is done with a sanitary tee.

    It would be uncommon to find an existing vent in a basement. What is it for/from?
  3. jimbo

    jimbo Plumber

    Messages:
    8,997
    Location:
    San Diego
    Yes, unfortunately MA will not allow the homeowner to do this job. But we don't snitch here! We are concerned about the vent, but if I am not mistaken, for some years MA has required all new construction to provide a "future vent" in the basement for exactly this reason. Maybe that is what he has.
  4. bryankloos

    bryankloos New Member

    Messages:
    6
    Location:
    MA
    Did I say I was from MA???? They dont let us do electrical here either;) Shhhhhhh.....

    The vent was from the prior washing machine drain which was in unfinished space.
    Last edited: Mar 31, 2012
  5. bryankloos

    bryankloos New Member

    Messages:
    6
    Location:
    MA
    I need to tie into the stack lower, as the current drain is too high for the laundry box.

    As the stack is about 6 inches from the corner wall, I thought it would be easier to tie both 2" drains together horizontally before dumping into the 4" stack, at a new 4x4x2 wye, which would be mounted a bit lower than the existing setup.

    I would run 2 vents, one from the sink side and one from the washing machine side up to the existing vent.

    I hope this is clear???

    Thanks,
  6. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    22,139
    Location:
    New England
    Normally, you don't want to share the WM drain line with anything else until it gets bigger.
  7. bryankloos

    bryankloos New Member

    Messages:
    6
    Location:
    MA
    If thats the case, I guess I need two seperate ties into the 4" stack? That said, should I use wye's or sanitary tee's at the 4x4x2 location?
  8. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    22,139
    Location:
    New England
    Maybe a 4x4x3 or a 4x4x4, and make it 3" or 4" once the WM and sink drains come together. See what the pros think.
  9. cacher_chick

    cacher_chick Test, Don't Guess!

    Messages:
    3,249
    Location:
    Land of Cheese
    The washer is 4 dfu and sink is 2 dfu, so yes you can connect both to a 2" branch drain. How you make the connections, to include the vents, will determine if it right or wrong.

    It would probably be best if you were to draw us a diagram, showing the pipe and fittings as they will be connected. Make sure you check the height requirements of the sink drain and washer trap in doing so.
  10. Gary Swart

    Gary Swart In the Trades

    Messages:
    7,358
    Location:
    Yakima WA
    You should bear in mind that while you may very well DIY plumbing and electrical work in your home albeit illegally, if/when you want to sell the home the inspector will discover the work and require you to pay to have it redone correctly before the sale can be approved.
  11. jimbo

    jimbo Plumber

    Messages:
    8,997
    Location:
    San Diego
    bryankloos
    [​IMG]

    DIY Junior Member[​IMG]Join DateMar 2012LocationMA



    The line that says LOCATION MA......that was the tip off about where you are!@ Unless you lied in your intro!!!!!!!!!!
  12. Tom Sawyer

    Tom Sawyer In the Trades

    Messages:
    3,227
    Location:
    Maine
    I think that when you do your own plumbing in Mass, they make you swim with the fishes.
  13. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,831
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    quote; the current drain is too high for the laundry box.

    Either that "current drain" is too high for ANYTHING, or you are putting the laundry box very low.
  14. bryankloos

    bryankloos New Member

    Messages:
    6
    Location:
    MA
    Ouch... You guys are tough!

    Truth of the matter is I purchased this home about 3 years ago, and it had been renovated by the prior-prior homeowner.
    We had a freeze-free spigot blow its anti-suction valve last summer and the resulting flood (which happened while I was on a weeks vacation...) resulted in a major hydrostatic infiltration of water into the basement. That said, I am gutting the space and refinshing.

    In the process, I've noticed that much of the reno electrical and some plumbing was WAY out of wack.

    I've pulled building permits (as I intend to have things done by the books). The fine line is what was pre-existing and what is new... Obviously the space was not inspected when the prior reno was done, as the work is far from code. The building inspector told me that he would "grandfather" me wrt anything that was pre-existing, and anything new needs to be inspected. I cant aford to pay an electrician 60/hour to move wires, install outlet boxes, drill holes in studs etc etc. So I will do a bunch of it myself, and say it was pre-existing... That is the reality of my budget. That said, I do have a brother-in-law who is a liscensed electrician, and he is helping me. Unfortunately, as he is out of state, he cant pull the permit, as my local town requires an in-state liscensed electrician to do so. Again, I cant afford to pay womeone to drill studs at 60/hour... So I will do what I can and call it pre-existing. You can also bet it will be done well, and checked by my brother-in-law to ensure the safety of my family. At the end of this, I'll hire out the electrician to install a few outlets, arc fault breakers, and get the inspection passed. It is what it is.


    Back to the plumbing... The old basement was completely unfinished by the laundry area, which I am now finsihing up. The drain for the WM is very high on the wall (24 inches above the p-trap, which is about 3 feet off the floor), which is why I want to lower it. While I'm at it, I plan to add in a sink for the wife, to make her happy. I can carbon-copy the design of the pre-existing WM drain, but given I want to add the sink, and the incorrect height of the drain, I am here asking for advice.

    If you guys think you can help me, I'll be happy to draw up the plans for some suggestions...

    Any takers?
  15. cacher_chick

    cacher_chick Test, Don't Guess!

    Messages:
    3,249
    Location:
    Land of Cheese
    That would be a good idea.

  16. bryankloos

    bryankloos New Member

    Messages:
    6
    Location:
    MA
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2012
  17. cacher_chick

    cacher_chick Test, Don't Guess!

    Messages:
    3,249
    Location:
    Land of Cheese
    Print yourself some isometric graph paper to use as a guide. Then your drawing might make sense to others.

    This is what any plumbing/building permit & inspection dept. will want to see.


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