Kraus Faucet into a Toto Promenade Pedestal Lavatory

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BobL43

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Aargh!. So my bathroom reno project is finally coming to installing the Toilet a Toto Promenade round bowl: Done.Today I installed a beautiful Kraus 8 inch 3 hole faucet into the Toto Promenade 28 inch Pedestal lav, and installed the sink onto the pedestal. A tremendous PITA, but it looked Beautiful until I turned the water stops on, and the stupid faucet was leaking where the water hot/cold manifold screws into the faucet itself. In order to install the faucet into the sink, you need to unscrew the manifold from the facet spout assembly, mount the spout into the center lav hole, and then screw the manifold back into the spout. Everything looke good going together. The O-rings went into the spout's body smoothly, which I paid particlar care with, for sure.Then attaching the hoses, that was lots of fun, but just had to unscrew the manifold 1/2 turn from the spout so there was room for the hoses, as you can see in the attached pictures. Yhe manifold has a very fine thread, so a 1/2 turn does not amount to much of the spout moving out of the spout body. By the way, that line that looks kinked in the photo, is just a reflection, it is not kinked.I removed the manifold from the spout, and the O-rings are undamaged.Also, the pop-up drain is not long enough to reach the rod in the waste body to actuate the pop-up, which just bottoms and stops the drain as if you wanted to keep water in the sink.This Kraus faucet is beautiful, but installing it is real, real ugly. Tomorrow I'm going to remove the spout and assemble it to the manifold and test it under pressure. There really was no pressure when it was leaking, as the water was able to freely flow out of the faucet spout. Did I say AArgh?Have any of you Pros worked with Kraus faucets before and had any problems?:eek: I'm no pro, but I have installed about 50 or so faucets over the years for myself and friends, family, never had a problem before this one. I'll be calling Kraus on Monday to see what they have to offer. They already sent me an 1-1/4 inch flanged tail piece, as there factory forgot to pach them with a load of these faucets. Not easy to find a 1-1/4 inch flanged tailpiece and its washer these days either, it seems.
 

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Hackney plumbing

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I've never installed a widespread Kraus but I have installed a few of their single lever vessel faucets without issue.

The tailpiece could be made on site out of 1.25 tubular and the washer can also be made on the job.

I like the choice of Lav...that looks good. Consider Grohe faucets if kraus cant satisfy you. I like the tile too.
 

BobL43

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I've never installed a widespread Kraus but I have installed a few of their single lever vessel faucets without issue.

The tailpiece could be made on site out of 1.25 tubular and the washer can also be made on the job.

I like the choice of Lav...that looks good. Consider Grohe faucets if kraus cant satisfy you. I like the tile too.

Thanks Hackney. It's close to a year of been working on this project, so I had time to get the tile work done the way my wife likes it; me too.

Thanks again. and here's a picture of the Promenade round bowl I could not squeeze into my last post.
 

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BobL43

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I called Kraus today, they aplogized; it is a new faucet and they have been experiencing some problems. They are sending me a new one tonight, and hopefully I'll have it tomorrow, as they are only 30 miles from where I live.
 

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I called Kraus today, they aplogized; it is a new faucet and they have been experiencing some problems. They are sending me a new one tonight, and hopefully I'll have it tomorrow, as they are only 30 miles from where I live.

Got the new faucet today from Kraus and installed just the faucet body and manifold: Voila! no leaks. But their pop up drain assembly is obiously not mfg'd to properly fit and work with American lavatory sinks like the Toto Promenade pedestal. The distance from the deck of the sink to the drain assembly tilt rod is greater than the length of the supplied lift rod, even using their extension rod. I had to bend the outside of the tilt rod up to attach it to the swivel that hooks it to the up down rod that has the knob on top of the faucet. Even then, the stopper assembly does not get lifted properly inside the drain assembly because: I'll post a picture of it, lots easier to understand.
 

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Got the new faucet today from Kraus and installed just the faucet body and manifold: Voila! no leaks. But their pop up drain assembly is obiously not mfg'd to properly fit and work with American lavatory sinks like the Toto Promenade pedestal. The distance from the deck of the sink to the drain assembly tilt rod is greater than the length of the supplied lift rod, even using their extension rod. I had to bend the outside of the tilt rod up to attach it to the swivel that hooks it to the up down rod that has the knob on top of the faucet. Even then, the stopper assembly does not get lifted properly inside the drain assembly because: I'll post a picture of it, lots easier to understand.

I run into your problem typically with undermount lavatories when the faucet is mounted on the counter-top (typically granite) and the lavatory has the drain in the center.

The stoppers horizontal pivot rod is not long enough to reach the vertical lift rod/strap.

I extend the horizontal pivot rod.
 

BobL43

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I run into your problem typically with undermount lavatories when the faucet is mounted on the counter-top (typically granite) and the lavatory has the drain in the center.

The stoppers horizontal pivot rod is not long enough to reach the vertical lift rod/strap.

I extend the horizontal pivot rod.

If the horizontal pivot rod were any longer in my install, it would hit the wall. The downrod is too short to reach the horizontal. A very nice swivel joint is supplied; you can see it and the bend I made in the horizontal rod. The stopper has a stainless steel flathead bolt that is too short, and not a big enough head to not slip off the actator rod in the drain, which you can see in the 3rd photo
 

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Hackney plumbing

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Ah yes I have had to cut the pivot rod off before also. Yes I see the vertical rod is not long enough. You could sh^tcan the swivel and use a strap and a clip to retain the strap.

Now the stopper height is adjustable. Loosen the nut below that round plastic spacer and extend the lenght by unscrewing it.....when you get the proper lenght you tighten the nut back down to keep it there.

Looks like you may need to cut the horizontal rod......

The manufacturer may be able to supply you with a longer vertical rod or an extension.

Or you could replace the pop up with a Delta. :)
 

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Ah yes I have had to cut the pivot rod off before also. Yes I see the vertical rod is not long enough. You could sh^tcan the swivel and use a strap and a clip to retain the strap.

Now the stopper height is adjustable. Loosen the nut below that round plastic spacer and extend the lenght by unscrewing it.....when you get the proper lenght you tighten the nut back down to keep it there.

Looks like you may need to cut the horizontal rod......

The manufacturer may be able to supply you with a longer vertical rod or an extension.

Or you could replace the pop up with a Delta. :)

That screw is adjusted all the way out and caught only on maybe a thread and a half. It thought about buying another pop up drain assembly, but I paid 230 bucks for this faucet and I think Kraus should make good on it. Chrome stuff is cheap, but anything in "Oil Rubbed Bronze"
costs lots more. My wife chose the color, which is very nice, but even a genuine Toto Oil rubbed bronze flush lever for the Toto Promenade toilet is a crazy 85 bucks. I bought a Danco at big box blue for 19 bucks. chrome was much cheaper. Its only money, and gotta keep my women happy.
 

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My project is almost done, Hoo Hah!

The progress is happening now. all fixtures installed and working well, no leaks. Looks real sweet too, at least we think so.
 

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BobL43

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Looks like your bathroom would feel right at home in a 1910 house, although the fixtures probably cost 100 times as much, or more.
I spent 2/3 of the cost of my home (bought new in 1971) on the materials for this bath reno. My labor was "free" except for more aches, pains, cuts, scars, etc. I gutted it, wired it, replumbed everything putting in a tub where there never was anything, put in the sink where there was never anything, and moved the throne 6 inches closer to the wall, still keeping it 15 inches center to wall.

I learned a lot here and on John Bridge. What I learned here was priceless as was on the tiling forum.

I thank you guys very, very much!
 

Hackney plumbing

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From the pics you did an outstanding job sir. I only see one thing I may have done different and thats the water supply to the toilet. Like I said tho......outstanding job sir.

I built my home in 2000 and did the flooring and countertops on the cheap. I did install some tile in the kitchen and baths but it is not want I really wanted. I'm thinking of ripping it all up. I need to spend about 20 grand to get it like I want it.....not sure I want to stay in the same area tho so spending 20 may not be a wise thing to do.
 

BobL43

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From the pics you did an outstanding job sir. I only see one thing I may have done different and thats the water supply to the toilet. Like I said tho......outstanding job sir.

I built my home in 2000 and did the flooring and countertops on the cheap. I did install some tile in the kitchen and baths but it is not want I really wanted. I'm thinking of ripping it all up. I need to spend about 20 grand to get it like I want it.....not sure I want to stay in the same area tho so spending 20 may not be a wise thing to do.

Hi Hackney, Thanks for the kind words.

Yeah there was a reason for that. I could have run a feed through the floor, but I did not want to. This picture shows the situation, and I did what I did.

I still can turn the angle stop 90 degrees to the right and bend a piece of colored copper line to the right and then up to the tank.
 

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