Mad Plumber
Mad Skills
I need a plumber and a plumbing designer. I live on Capitol Hill in Seattle in a 100-year old house.
First: We just moved our kitchen sink to a new location, and the drain setup isn’t working well.
Here are a few photos of the sink setup. Basically, I moved the sink from an outside wall to an inside wall at a 90 degree angle, to get a better kitchen layout. This resulted in having to stretch the run of the drain a few feet away from the wall, instead of the conventional drain right under the sink. With a disposal involved, this makes the run not only long but pretty low. The P-trap is probably 2†from the floor of the cabinet. Lots of water sits in the pipes and the joints don’t seem to want to stay together so well. I need someone to either figure out a way to make that drain setup hold together better, or move it entirely. On that moving option, the current sink drain is directly back to back with the powder room sink drain. That drain is in the wall between the two sinks. So maybe it wouldn’t be a horrendous project.
This is above a basement and it’s all visible.
In the lav, the ABS pipe that goes into the wall for the sink drain looks like it’s about 2†outside diameter, but it’s hard to measure really precisely.
I think the previous kitchen plumbing was 1 ½†trap and arm, which is what I replaced it with.
I took some measurements, in the hope that it might shed some light on the situation. Where the disposal tees into the sink drain is 11†above the cabinet floor. (This is measured at the bottom edge of the pipe)
Where the ABS drain pipe goes into the wall is 15†above the floor of the cabinet, measuring bottom edge.
The horizontal run that leads from the sink drain over to the P trap is 8†at the elbow, with a gentle slope down to the P.
Is there any way it might work to keep the wall drain location where it is, but somehow shorten the uphill climb from the P-trap? If there’s only 4†difference from the elevation of the disposal T to the wall pipe, might we be able to set up a different set of pipes/elbows/P trap? Or does it definitively need to move?
First: We just moved our kitchen sink to a new location, and the drain setup isn’t working well.
Here are a few photos of the sink setup. Basically, I moved the sink from an outside wall to an inside wall at a 90 degree angle, to get a better kitchen layout. This resulted in having to stretch the run of the drain a few feet away from the wall, instead of the conventional drain right under the sink. With a disposal involved, this makes the run not only long but pretty low. The P-trap is probably 2†from the floor of the cabinet. Lots of water sits in the pipes and the joints don’t seem to want to stay together so well. I need someone to either figure out a way to make that drain setup hold together better, or move it entirely. On that moving option, the current sink drain is directly back to back with the powder room sink drain. That drain is in the wall between the two sinks. So maybe it wouldn’t be a horrendous project.
This is above a basement and it’s all visible.
In the lav, the ABS pipe that goes into the wall for the sink drain looks like it’s about 2†outside diameter, but it’s hard to measure really precisely.
I think the previous kitchen plumbing was 1 ½†trap and arm, which is what I replaced it with.
I took some measurements, in the hope that it might shed some light on the situation. Where the disposal tees into the sink drain is 11†above the cabinet floor. (This is measured at the bottom edge of the pipe)
Where the ABS drain pipe goes into the wall is 15†above the floor of the cabinet, measuring bottom edge.
The horizontal run that leads from the sink drain over to the P trap is 8†at the elbow, with a gentle slope down to the P.
Is there any way it might work to keep the wall drain location where it is, but somehow shorten the uphill climb from the P-trap? If there’s only 4†difference from the elevation of the disposal T to the wall pipe, might we be able to set up a different set of pipes/elbows/P trap? Or does it definitively need to move?
