Kitchen sink gurgles loudly when dishwasher drains

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jonnysteals

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In my kitchen I have two separate sinks. One sink is in the island and the second sink is on the exterior wall under a bank of windows. The kitchen sink under the bank of windows on the exterior wall gurgles only when the dishwasher drains. If I run the water full bore it goes down with no issues, never backs up and doesn't gurgle. Both sinks drain into the same 2 inch abs drain line and neither are vented. I had a new water system installed so that should eliminate the copper corrosion in the future you see.

The dishwasher is a asko 20.3 and I could not find the water discharge rate in gallons per minute.

Here is the setup under the sink with the dishwasher.

s-trap-01.jpg


This is an S-Trap and it's lacking a vent.

s-trap-02.jpg




As you can see the drain line is a little weird where it connects to the stand pipe. I am unsure why there are so many rubber adapters there and the drain does not make a loop. It seems there isn't enough dishwasher drain hose to make the loop as well .

Here is a picture of the kitchen for perspective and location reference.

s-trap-03.jpg



So I can't vent this out the roof without tearing out the kitchen. I don't plan on being murdered by my wife on Christmas so this doesn't seem like a realistic solution. I don't believe I can vent out the back of the cabinet because then wouldn't the gasses go into the window when it is open. It would be around 18 inches or more below the window for reference. Do I put a AAV in like in this picture below?

Is the AAV the proper solution without tearing out the kitchen?
Do I try and fix how the dishwasher drain is connected and eliminate most of those adapters?
Would the AAV eliminate my dishwasher drain gurgling loudly?
Anything I am missing or overlooked?
The soil stack is vented into a 2 inch pvc vent but the soil stack and vent are 15 feet away for reference.

trap-with-aav.jpg
 
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Jadnashua

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Right now, you have an illegal S-trap...

IF an AAV is allowed where you live (it may not be), then it's better to raise it up as high as you can go in the cabinet while still being able to unscrew it and replace it when it eventually fails. Too low, and if something happens, its seal can get contaminated, and then it will always leak.

Some places require an air gap for the dishwasher. It's always the safer bet. But, when you don't use an air gap, generally, the discharge hose should run up to the bottom of the counter prior to going down again to make the drain connection.
 

jonnysteals

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Right now, you have an illegal S-trap...

IF an AAV is allowed where you live (it may not be), then it's better to raise it up as high as you can go in the cabinet while still being able to unscrew it and replace it when it eventually fails. Too low, and if something happens, its seal can get contaminated, and then it will always leak.

Some places require an air gap for the dishwasher. It's always the safer bet. But, when you don't use an air gap, generally, the discharge hose should run up to the bottom of the counter prior to going down again to make the drain connection.


I am in NJ and from my research I have found AAV to be permitted. My wife does not want the air gap installed as I tried that first and I have never seen an airgap installed in Southern NJ. I worked construction while I was in college and never saw one installed in the 4 years.

So right now the plan is this
1. extended the 2 inch abs to the sanitary tee
2. 2 inch abs from the sanitary tee at least 4 inches to the AAV
3. eliminate the s trap and put a ptrap in and connect it to the sanitary tee.
4. try and get enough drain hose to do a loop
5. If possible eliminate the dishwasher drain adapters.


I feel that even if it fails every 5 years the 20 dollar price is justified but not hearing the stupid thing drain and my wife ask me if I heard it every night when the dishwasher drains.

Any issues you see?
 

Terry

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You may still hear the dishwasher drain regardless.
The main worry I would have with the current S trap configuration would be the trap siphoning. If the trap sucks dry, it allows sewer gas into the room. I have seen this happen, I mean smelled this happening before while in the kitchen of a friends home while we were cooking. It wasn't pleasant.

I would have maintained the 2" up to a 2' x 1-1/2" santee with an AAV on top. P-trap out the side inlet of the Santee.

seaton_sink_1.jpg


seaton_sink_3.jpg
 
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jonnysteals

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You may still hear the dishwasher drain regardless.
The main worry I would have with the current S trap configuration would be the trap siphoning. If the trap sucks dry, it allows sewer gas into the room. I have seen this happen, I mean smelled this happening before while in the kitchen of a friends home while we were cooking. It wasn't pleasant.

I would have maintained the 2" up to a 2' x 1-1/2" santee with an AAV on top. P-trap out the side inlet of the Santee.


Dumb questions.
Why do you recommend having the ptrap connect to the side of the santee?
Do you recommend putting a clean out in? I never have on kitchen sinks but just curious if I should.
 
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