Kitchen sink drain - is it done correctly? Looking for your comments and suggestions

Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & ' started by Kirill, Apr 7, 2014.

  1. Kirill

    Kirill New Member

    Messages:
    5
    Location:
    Boston, MA
    Good morning,

    I am new to plumbing and new to this forum. I wonder if you can have a look at my setup and provide your opinions and suggestions on:

    * if it is done correctly (according to the code) and
    * if there is a better way to do this

    I think I did everything correctly but I am not sure. I don't mind to redo the job but need your advice.

    Setup:
    Kitchen remodel with large window in front of a kitchen sink; 2" copper vent/drain pipe goes to the roof on the left side of the window; 5' from the center of the sink to the vent/drain pipe.

    Configuration (sink side):
    1) 5' long horizontal 2" PVC pipe at 1/4" grade (at 14" from the floor)
    2) 45 degree elbow from the wall toward the sink
    3) 45 degree wye with a cleanout plug and a pipe toward 2" p-trap (with cleanout)

    Configuration (vent side):
    4) 5' long horizontal 2" PVC pipe at 1/4" grade (at 14" from the floor)
    5) sanitary tee to go up to the roof (via a 2" no-hub adapter)

    Configuration (drain side):
    6) 5' long horizontal 2" PVC pipe at 1/4" grade (at 14" from the floor)
    7) 2" sanitary tee to go down to the basement (drain)
    8) 2" vertical pipe 12" long (going down)
    9) 2" 45 degree elbow (at the floor level; going into the basement)
    10) 2" 22 degree elbow (at the floor level; going into the basement)
    11) 2" pipe 18" long sloping at 22 degrees
    12) 2" combi fixture to go 90 degrees from a 22 degree sloping to horizontal
    13) 2" pipe 10" horizontal toward copper drain pipe.


    Questions (things that I am not sure about):
    a) sink side: should I use a long elbow from the wall toward the sink instead of 45 degree elbow (item #2) ?
    b) is it OK to use "comby" to go from sloping 22 to horizontal at 90 degree
    c) is it OK to have a p-trap arm that is 5 1/2' so long
    d) should I use 2" p-trap or with a reducer get to 1 1/2 right out of the wall
    e) (variation of #d) should I use 2"x1 1/2"x2" wye toward the p-trap?
    e) should I split drain and vent into separate pipes - vent goes at 45 degrees and turns vertical above 6" over flow rim line and - drain goes vertically down into the basement right where the sink is?


    I attached few pictures. Would appreciate your comments,


    With kind regards,
    Kirill

    DSC_3907.jpg

    DSC_3904.jpg

    DSC_3901.jpg

    DSC_3900.jpg

    DSC_3899.jpg
  2. Smooky

    Smooky Member

    Messages:
    569
    Location:
    NC
    I would cut off the 45, y and pvc p-trap and change it to 90 degree straight out the wall. I would relocate the oversize nail guard at the base to the support post and install the proper size at the base.
  3. jadziedzic

    jadziedzic Member

    Messages:
    89
    Location:
    New Hampshire
    FYI, some localities require the "oversize nail guard" - sometimes called a "BOCA plate" - to guard against nail penetration when base or crown molding are installed. My local inspector asked me to use the "BOCA plates" when modifying some plumbing in a bathroom.

    To the original poster: Are you aware that it is illegal for anyone other than a licensed plumber to do plumbing work in the People's Republic of Massachusetts? I disagree with that kind of law - let the homeowner pull a permit and get the work inspected - but I suppose there are valid health/safety reasons in the eyes of some folks.
  4. Kirill

    Kirill New Member

    Messages:
    5
    Location:
    Boston, MA

    Hi Smooky, thank you for your suggestion on adding the nail plates to the post. I already did (see attached). I plan to take an over-sized plate of an replace it wit a smaller one just like the one on the right.

    As for cutting the 45 and replacing it with a long sweep elbow, would it require to have a cleanout above sanitary tee on the vertical vent pipe? And have a hole in the wall to access this cleanout? My understanding of the plumbing code is that a separate cleanout is needed for every 90+45 degree turn. In what you propose, I will have a 90 turn from the p-trap into the wall and a 90 degree at sanitary tee. Would it be allowed without a cleanout? A 90 degree long sweep was my original plan but a guy at Home Depot suggested 45 degree + Y for a cleanout.

    With kind regards,
    Kirill

    DSC_3912.jpg
  5. Kirill

    Kirill New Member

    Messages:
    5
    Location:
    Boston, MA
    Hi jadziedzic,

    You are absolutely right about the People's Republic of Massachusetts. I am totally aware of this extortion provision in the law. But to ease the pain, there are licensed plumbers who would allow an "appreciate" to do the actual work (under their strict supervision). Getting back to my original post, do you think everything is done correctly and to the code?

    With kind regards,
    Kirill
  6. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,279
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    quote; But to ease the pain, there are licensed plumbers who would allow an "appreciate" to do the actual work (under their strict supervision).

    I am not sure what an "appreciate" is, but here, that would be called "selling your license" and would result in a stiff fine, and possibly revocation of the license.
  7. Smooky

    Smooky Member

    Messages:
    569
    Location:
    NC
    Kirill
    I’m not sure about the clean out requirements. I would 90 and come straight out the wall because that way it is a lot easier to finish the wall and build the cabinet. The trap that you have I might use for a tub or shower but not for a sink. I prefer the p-trap kits because they are easy to install and can easily be adjusted. Also it can be removed and cleaned easily or replaced. I would snake the line through the drain opening. That way it makes everything simple and easy.

    http://www.homedepot.com/p/DBHL-1-1...d-PVC-Adapter-HDP9704B/202078166?N=5yc1vZc6ap

    [​IMG]
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 9, 2014
  8. Kirill

    Kirill New Member

    Messages:
    5
    Location:
    Boston, MA
    Sorry, fast fingers, I meant "apprentice". As for your comment, this is a DIY forum, let's keep political (People's Republic), moral (selling the license) and legal (revocation) aspects out of this discussion.

    Getting back to my original post. There are things in my design that I am not sure about. Smooky suggested to replace 45 with long (?) sweep elbow and replace soldered 2" p-trap with a 1 1/2" p-trap. What about the bottom part? Can I use "comby"? Do I need separate pipes for drain and vent?

    Questions:
    a) sink side: should I use a long elbow from the wall toward the sink instead of 45 degree elbow (item #2) ?
    b) is it OK to use "comby" to go from sloping 22 to horizontal at 90 degree
    c) is it OK to have a p-trap arm that is 5 1/2' so long
    d) should I use 2" p-trap or with a reducer get to 1 1/2 right out of the wall
    e) (variation of #d) should I use 2"x1 1/2"x2" wye toward the p-trap?
    e) should I split drain and vent into separate pipes - vent goes at 45 degrees and turns vertical above 6" over flow rim line and - drain goes vertically down into the basement right where the sink is?

    Looking forward for your feedback,
    With kind regards,
    Kirill
  9. Kirill

    Kirill New Member

    Messages:
    5
    Location:
    Boston, MA
    Hi Smooky, thank you for your suggestion. As for the clean out requirement, I was referring to UPC-707.4 section. I misunderstood the requirement. I thought that any change in direction (including vertical drop is counted towards 135 degrees. As a result, I counted 90 elbow from the p-trap and 90 degrees at the sanitary tee as 180 degrees. I thought that I will need a clean out above the sanitary tee in this case. Thank you very much for the suggestion. With kind regards, Kirill


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