Kitchen remodel ARC FAULT AND GFI breakers

[orf]

I'm redoing the kitchen and will have to rewire. As I understand I will need GFI as well as Arc fault protection on some of the circuits.
Question 1
Which items need both and which just need one or the other?
How about the lights?

Question 2 How do you add both types of protection on things that get hard-wired I'm assuming that I have to use a combination breaker. But maybe the dishwasher and disposal now need to be plugged in, just not sure.

Question 3 for the 20 amp outlets is it better to go with the combination Arc fault/GFI outlets, or an Arc fault breaker and a separate GFI outlet? Or an Arc fault/GFI breaker. I'm concerned about Arc fault being too sensitive.

Thanks for the advice.

 

[Jadnashua]

AFCI devices have gone through a few generations and, from what I hear, the new ones don't have the issues of the first ones.

The devices serve two different purposes. An AFCI protects the wiring and structure. A bad connection can produce an arc that could cause a fire at way less power than the circuit breaker needs to trip putting your structure in danger of literally catching fire. A GFCI is there to protect the user. All power should remain within the power leads...whatever goes out one lead should return on the other. If there is a mismatch, it must be leaking somewhere. That leak is called a ground fault. That leak could be going through you, so it's good to know when it exceeds an amount that could cause harm and shut it off.

Some feel that the nuisance trips, especially of the early generation devices, was not worth the protection they provided (not sure how they'd feel if their house burned down or someone they loved died as a result of ignoring what's required). Some older devices as they wear can develop a GF, and trip, while seemingly still functioning fine. If the conditions end up just right, what may not have caused any issues could suddenly turn catastrophic. A properly designed, properly working modern device should never trip either device. If it does trip, you should find out why rather than blaming the protection circuit. They do fail, but they're pretty reliable. If the device passes its built-in test function (you should check it periodically), it's probably not the device, but the wiring or item attached.

So, IMHO, the question ends up being more of not where do I need them to pass code, but where should they be to provide some peace of mind and better safety.

The specific answer will depend on what code cycle your local government utilizes. Once you know what your local code cycle and type is in use, the documents should tell you what is required. Your local building department should be able to direct you. In the US, that can vary by town. I don't know if Canada has a single code that is enforced identically in all areas.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[WorthFlorida]

NEC 2017 edition requires all 115v outlets must be AFCI including the outlet under the sink for a dishwasher and disposal. The only exception is fire alarm circuits, not smoke detector circuits.

The kicker is “outlets”. If the dishwasher is direct wired it could be exempt. But as Jim stated, check you local building department. Just don’t go the cheaper way. Arc fault doesn’t hurt to have and it only enhances your safety.

When rewiring the kitchen, a minimum of 2-20 amp circuits are required for the counter areas and usually a sink is nearby so GFCI is required. There are breakers that are both arc & ground fault rated. I personally would use arc faults in the breaker panel and GFCI’s at the outlets.

 

[orf]

Thanks, I have to meet with the town inspector in a few days so I'll ask. The way they work it here is that the first electrical inspection is done by a private inspection company certified by the state. Then the local inspector comes over and does the final inspection. I just don't want to get caught in the middle.