Keep losing check valves

[rafjr64]

This is the third check valve at my well that has failed in the past 13 months. I have owned the property for 13 months as well. Is this sediment and sand causing it to fail prematurely? If so, what filter set-up is recommended?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Valveman]

Is it the check valve on the submersible pump or do you have another check valve above ground?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[rafjr64]

Is it the check valve on the submersible pump or do you have another check valve above ground?

It's the one above ground that the pswitch is mounted to. Not valve on pump. That would be a footvalve correct?

 

[Craigpump]

What brand of checkvalve? Flowmatic, Simmons...?

I've seen those last decades with no issues, so I wonder if there isn't something else going on.

 

[Valveman]

Is it a bladder tank or an air over water tank?

 

[Reach4]

It's the one above ground that the pswitch is mounted to. Not valve on pump. That would be a footvalve correct?

Is your pump above ground?

Is your symptom that your pump cycles when you are not using water?

 

[Boycedrilling]

Is it possible that enough abrasive sand is being pumped to erode the check valve poppet or seat?

 

[Craigpump]

Is it possible that enough abrasive sand is being pumped to erode the check valve poppet or seat?

Maybe, but if there is that much sediment I think that he'd be replacing pumps too

 

[rafjr64]

What brand of checkvalve? Flowmatic, Simmons...?

I've seen those last decades with no issues, so I wonder if there isn't something else going on.

Flowmatic brass with white plastic inside. I am thinking gravel/sand is coming up from the well and destroying the valve in the process. Well is only 95ft deep. Drilled in 1977. Wonder if the casing is bad and hence the gravel. Any thoughts on that theory?

 

[rafjr64]

Is it a bladder tank or an air over water tank?

galvanized over air tanks.

 

[rafjr64]

Is your pump above ground?

Is your symptom that your pump cycles when you are not using water?

Pump is submersible 95ft down. Symtpom was exactly as you stated. Replaced check valve, problem solved but it's the third one in 13 months.

 

[Reach4]

Pump is submersible 95ft down. Symtpom was exactly as you stated. Replaced check valve, problem solved but it's the third one in 13 months.

The real problem is the check valve at the pump is leaking. Your check valve at the pressure tank is a work-around.
I was wrong if there is a snifter and drain-back/bleeder valve.

With a submersible pump, there is not something called a foot valve.

Somebody may offer a suggestion for a better check valve.

 

[ThirdGenPump]

Pump is submersible 95ft down. Symtpom was exactly as you stated. Replaced check valve, problem solved but it's the third one in 13 months.

You are destroying the check valves, they can't hold vacuum like that. You need to replace the check valve at the pump, that's the actual problem.

 

[rafjr64]

I trust your assessment and will replace the check valve at the pump. Is there a particular check valve at the pump that is more durable than others? The flowmatic brass with plastic inerds seems like it could be improved upon with all steel parts. The poster above referenced an Apollo brand but the website says they are not safe for potable water.

 

[Valveman]

Those check valves are fine. No check valve can hold a vacuum. When you say the check valve fails, if that is because the water is going back down the well and the pump comes on even when no one is using water, then the check valve at the pump is the problem. The only thing that should happen if the upper check fails, is that the tank should not get any air charge and the waterlogged tank should make the pump cycle on and off rapidly. That is the only thing the upper check does. The check on the pump is the one that keeps the water from going back down the well.

 

[Texas Wellman]

Do you have a tapped check valve with a 1/8" schrader (weak spring vacuum release) on your well side? It sounds like you've got an air maker system set-up. There is also a bleeder in the well. If the snifter valve (1/8 schrader valve) is not letting air into the line this may be causing your problem.

 

[Reach4]

galvanized over air tanks.

I missed that earlier. So I was probably wrong about the topside check valve being a workaround. It is important to a drain-back/bleeder valve and snifter system with a galvanized tank.

Sorry.

 

[rafjr64]

Those check valves are fine. No check valve can hold a vacuum. When you say the check valve fails, if that is because the water is going back down the well and the pump comes on even when no one is using water, then the check valve at the pump is the problem. The only thing that should happen if the upper check fails, is that the tank should not get any air charge and the waterlogged tank should make the pump cycle on and off rapidly. That is the only thing the upper check does. The check on the pump is the one that keeps the water from going back down the well.

I could hear water running by standing near the well head. I replaced the upper check valve and discovered the plastic plunger inside was broken and missing pieces.

 

[rafjr64]

Do you have a tapped check valve with a 1/8" schrader (weak spring vacuum release) on your well side? It sounds like you've got an air maker system set-up. There is also a bleeder in the well. If the snifter valve (1/8 schrader valve) is not letting air into the line this may be causing your problem.

I do have the small shrader (snifter) valve up top mounted on the check valve. I also have the air volume control valve tapped into the first tank. Are you guys telling me 1) this upper check valve is necessary and keep it. Still questioning why this is the second one to fail in 13mos. Is there still a check valve on the pipe that could be causing this? With the new upper check valve, there is no short cycle and everything is a-okay.

Side note: I did notice my Air Volume Control Valve stopped hissing as it normally does when filling with air/water.

 

[Texas Wellman]

You have a bleeder in your well that lets water out if the top joint. When the pump stops the water drains out of the top joint and the snifter valve let's air into the system as the water drains out. When the pump comes on this air pocket is pushed into the tank maintaining the air level in the tank. When too much air gets into the tank the avc releases the excess air.

Sometimes the check valve at the pump fails as well and the entire pipe will drain down to the static water level. This can really shock the system when the pump comes on (greater hydraulic force).

Or the bleeder is stopped up and the system is water-logged. Rapid cycling will cause check valves to fail. Reach down and see if the snifter valve is pulling vacuum once the pump shuts off. If you unscrew the schraeder valve with the pump off there should be no water there.