Katalox Light in the presence of IRB or SRB

[Reach4]

http://www.uswatersystems.com/blog/...nt-pyrolox-or-filox-to-remove-iron-or-sulfur/ says this in part:

"Disadvantages: It does not work well with sulfur or iron and/or sulfur-reducing bacteria."
​

If they are correct, that would be big. Yes, you can kill IRB and SRB with disinfection, but it is probably going to come back. I consider IRB and SBR to be ubiquitous. Has anybody heard anything along these lines? If it were true, I would have expected to see earlier comments.

 

[metalgodz]

If they are correct, that would be big. Yes, you can kill IRB and SRB with disinfection, but it is probably going to come back. I consider IRB and SBR to be ubiquitous. Has anybody heard anything along these lines? If it were true, I would have expected to see earlier comments.

I came across that comment in the research I was doing - Both that link, and in the manual in the greensand/birm setup I've got currently. I didn't think much of it at the time because the hydrogen sulfide smell was so minimal, but I'm reconsidering after the bad results and failed filter.

The second of two water tests I had run, I requested that they test for IRB and SRB. They delivered the test results without, and shrugged and said "we did" while pointing to the choliform numbers when I asked why they hadn't tested for IRB or SRB.

There was no sludge/film on the pump when it was pulled from the well for replacement, but I do see a very little bit of oily film on the top of water that's been standing in the toilets for a few days. Is there a source for individual test kits that doesn't involve me buying a case of kits?

 

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[Reach4]

I came across that comment in the research I was doing - Both that link, and in the manual in the greensand/birm setup I've got currently. I didn't think much of it at the time because the hydrogen sulfide smell was so minimal, but I'm reconsidering after the bad results and failed filter.

Is this bad result you are talking about the presence of coliform bacteria? I have limited knowlege on this, but I am interested in it.

The second of two water tests I had run, I requested that they test for IRB and SRB. They delivered the test results without, and shrugged and said "we did" while pointing to the choliform numbers when I asked why they hadn't tested for IRB or SRB.

It looks to me that SRB and IRB are not coliforms. Desulfovibrio is a genus of many SRB, and when I did a search of desulfovibrio coliform I found a book that seemed to talk of them as different things.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coliform_bacteria says "They are defined as rod-shaped Gram-negative non-spore forming and motile or non-motile bacteria which can ferment lactose with the production of acid and gas when incubated at 35–37°C."
It then goes on to say

Typical genera include:

Citrobacter
Enterobacter
Hafnia
Klebsiella
Fecal coliform
Escherichia​

I see that Desulfovibrio is not on the list.

Question: is your H2S smell only/mainly in the hot water maybe? Sulfate can react with an anode rod to produce H2S from what I read. I have a powered anode rod that provides protection to the water heater while not reacting with the sulfate.

I figure that SRB and IRB are very common in wells. I was going to say ubiquitous, but decided to soften it. I suggest sanitizing. http://www.moravecwaterwells.com/index.php/maintainance/disinfection-and-testing is my favorite procedure, although most get by with a less rigorous method.

 

[metalgodz]

Yes - Only/mainly in the hot water.

Looks like I'll sanitize using that procedure plus pool pellets (well extends at least 30' past the pump) before doing the install of the new system, and sanitize the new parts as well. The filter setup I'm looking at will sanitize itself with bleach every few days anyway.

 

[Reach4]

I suggest you consider a powered anode now or later. Read up on it now. Yes, it is expensive. It is a low-volume product. I expect to move mine to my next WH. You would probably need an impact wrench to remove the existing anode. Overtightening during manufacture plus corrosion during 10 years mean that you need a lot of torque. A breaker bar would probably turn the water heater and stress the pipes.

Some time after getting my filtering in place, I flushed my WH. Amazing amount of stuff.