Issues with a GFI Outlet

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Demiurge

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This past weekend, I was replacing a light switch for a friend's mom. Easy enough, done it a million times. As I'm wrapping up, the mom asks me to look at a GFI outlet in a bathroom, on a different circuit. Pretty easy to diagnose: outlet had burn marks on one of the vertical prongs. Yeah, that's not a good sign.

Background: About a year ago, she had some work done, which included the addition of this outlet. No idea what work was done, by whom, or what his/her certification/licensure is. The outlet went dead shortly after the work was done. The bathroom is a jack and jill, connecting a hallway to an addition (the addition is much older than the work done one year ago).

After grabbing a 15A GFI, I disconnect power and take the old GFI off. The LINE and LOAD are both connected to the LINE. Never seen that before. Wire nut one set of wires (12-2 x2 coming in, no grounds), turn on power, check to see if what's not nutted is live (handy voltmeter, of course). It is. Turn off power, nut those two, turn on power, check the other set. Dead. Perfect, LINE and LOAD identified. Wire up the GFI, turn on power, nothing. GFI won't reset. Ugh.

Turn off power, nut the LOAD, turn on power. GFI resets and works beautifully. Outlets down the circuit? Dead, of course.

Figuring that, while it isn't shown in the instructions, maybe there isn't an issue with LINE and LOAD going together. Turn off power, wire up the new GFI like the old one was, turn on power. GFI won't reset. Dead. Outlets down the circuit? Perfectly functional.

So I turned off the power, nutted LINE and LOAD, and re-mounted the GFI with nothing attached to it. She's used to the GFI not working, so another week won't kill anyone. Everything works perfectly. Well, except the disconnected GFI.

Why does the GFI hate me? Knowing that it checks for an imbalance in amperage across the hot and neutral, it's pretty easy to see there's a problem there. Knowing that the incoming hot and neutral will power the GFI with no LOAD attached, it seems to me the problem is further down circuit. Somewhere. Ugh.

Any thoughts or ideas? I'm tempted to just keep the current setup and add pigtails for the GFI...but it seems there's still a problem going uncorrected. The outlets down circuit don't need GFI protection, so I may pigtail it anyway. But again, it seems there's still some sort of issue here. How would you approach it, and what tests would you run to accurately diagnose the problem? I'm pretty handy with the basics, but this one has me stumped.
 

Demiurge

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Hot / neutral reverse?
Certainly possible. I'd run the multimeter across the suspected hot and ground, and again with the suspected neutral and ground...but I don't have a ground in any of these boxes. Find one with a ground and get a long extension cord? LOL. How would you suggest checking? And I do appreciate the idea.
 

JWelectric

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Are the conductors not black and white?

If you connect the line and load together and the GFCI trips then reverse the wires that you connected.

With the line and load connected to the line side of the GFCI device anything wrong downstream will not trip the GFCI

Be sure to label the GFCI as not having an equipment grounding conductor.
 

Jadnashua

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They make inexpensive plug-in test devices to check for line/neutral/ground problems...pick one up.

With the line/load leads tied together, you effectively have no protection from the GFCI. If the downstream receptacles don't need GFCI protection (wouldn't pass code today - the power for the bathroom should stay in the bathroom), connecting the GFCI's line leads to all of the other leads in the box should work. The thing does not require ground to work. Now, are you sure that the second cable isn't part of a switch loop?
 

Demiurge

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Are the conductors not black and white?

If you connect the line and load together and the GFCI trips then reverse the wires that you connected.

With the line and load connected to the line side of the GFCI device anything wrong downstream will not trip the GFCI

Be sure to label the GFCI as not having an equipment grounding conductor.
Conductors are indeed black and white. So leave the wire nutted together, but add a pigtail for the GFI. If it resets, it's ok? If it doesn't reset, switch the wires?

I understand that a problem downstream wouldn't trip a GFI if line and load were connected to the line side. However, that prevents this particular GFI from resetting and being operable.

They make inexpensive plug-in test devices to check for line/neutral/ground problems...pick one up.

With the line/load leads tied together, you effectively have no protection from the GFCI. If the downstream receptacles don't need GFCI protection (wouldn't pass code today - the power for the bathroom should stay in the bathroom), connecting the GFCI's line leads to all of the other leads in the box should work. The thing does not require ground to work. Now, are you sure that the second cable isn't part of a switch loop?
I had planned on picking up a plug-in test device. I will make sure I do so. I'm just hesitant to trust any test device 100%...so if it says there's no problem...I take it with a grain of salt. And yes, I work on dead lines like they're still hot. Had a shared neutral get me one time, and I won't let it happen again. (And I know a GFI doesn't need a ground to work. I'm just happier when boxes and receptacles are grounded.)

I agree on how it's currently wired. I'm not crazy about it, and it seems backwards from the location of the panel. In other words, down circuit from the GFI is actually a lot closer to the panel, which was moved during the room addition many, many moons ago. But short of rewiring that portion of the house...

A switch loop on the second cable...possible, I suppose. I'm not quite sure how or why it would be, and I'd doubt it, but I guess one never really knows how or why people do things the way they do. I plan on working out a little schematic when I go back, just so I'm sure I know how that circuit is wired, so I can check to see if this second line is a part of a switch loop. Odd that you mention it, because the room addition has a switch that no one knows what it goes to. But confirming that outlets down circuit of the GFI work when the LOAD and LINE are wire nutted, regardless of the switch position...I would doubt that what I assume is the LOAD is part of a switch loop...but it could be on a different switch, I guess. Interesting idea I'll have to give some thought to.
 
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JWelectric

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If these conductors are black and white there should be no problems.
The black goes on the brass screw and the white goes on the chrome looking screw.
 
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