Issue with hand shower and finished wall depth

Discussion in 'Shower & bathtub Forum & Blog' started by jlsddmar, Nov 2, 2009.

  1. jlsddmar

    jlsddmar New Member

    Messages:
    13
    Location:
    Watertown, MA
    Hi everyone -

    I just finished tiling my shower and am in the process of putting the hand shower in. The only problem is that the 1.5" brass nipple I was planning to use is too short, and the 2" comes out too far, such that the chrome adapter will no longer sit flush to the tile. I haven't had any luck finding a 1 3/4" brass nipple, and I'm not sure that I will.

    The ell behind the tile is firmly in place, so I can't bring that forward/back. Any ideas? Is threading a custom piece (brass, iron, etc) doable/within code?

    Thanks,
    Derek
  2. jadnashua

    jadnashua Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx

    Messages:
    21,806
    Location:
    New England
    If your local plumbing supply store doesn't have the required length, they may have a nipple threading machine, and can make one for you. If not, you should be able to find one on-line. WOrse comes to worse, you cut it off and buy a die and thread one yourself. This isn't a code issue, so buy or make what you need. You might try two short nipples with a coupler to see how long it is. The two extra sets of threads give you a little more leaway in exact length.
  3. hj

    hj Moderator & Master Plumber Staff Member

    Messages:
    26,253
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    nipple

    Two of the shortest nipples with a coupling will be EXTREMELY longer than 1 3/4". That is also too short for most nipple chucks to rethread a piece.
  4. johnfrwhipple

    johnfrwhipple I love these ACO Shower Drains - Best in Class

    Messages:
    3,787
    Location:
    North Vancouver, BC
    Looks like your cutting down a 2"

    Take your 2" brass extension and go to the hardware store and find an exact nut that threads perfect to the threads on your pipe.

    Put the nut on an 1/2" onto one end and remove an 1/8" from that side then with a pair of vice grips grip the center of the pipe and then back the nut off. This will clean up the threads that get messed up cutting the pipe.

    Repeat and you are done.

    Good Luck.

    It is very important that the nut is exact - not close.
  5. jlsddmar

    jlsddmar New Member

    Messages:
    13
    Location:
    Watertown, MA
    Hi -

    Will I run into an issue because the threads on the pipe are tapered and the ones on the nut are straight
  6. now you've got me confused. Aren't there nipples with straight threads?

    The whole idea is to use nuts - or something - to hold it still while you cut.

    On straight threads I've often threaded two nuts together to force them to bind against each other. That gives me a good grip on the threaded rod or whatever it is I'm trying to hold still.

    Anything else will do too. A brute force method is to hold it with (the right kind of) pliers in one hand and grind off (one thread worth of metal on each side if it's tapered; otherwise cut it more just on one side) using your diamond blade grinder, in the other hand. Rework the threads with an old steak knife or your swiss army knife. Now you are good to go. Might take five or ten minutes to get the thread opening back in shape. With a nut already threaded onto it, you have the advantage of using it to push the threads into shape, from the back side -- instead of trying to get a nut to start on the cut side.
  7. jlsddmar

    jlsddmar New Member

    Messages:
    13
    Location:
    Watertown, MA
    Hi -

    There may be nipples with straight threads, but these are NPT. From what I've read, sealing threads are NPT, where engineering (structural) threads are straight, for strength. That's why I was hesitant to use a nut. It might fit, but it won't cut a taper.
  8. nut, to hold it for a few minutes while you cut. Remove the nut after that operation. You now own a spare nut.

    what does this mean? you thought you would leave the nut on it? You thought the nut would do the cutting?


    3. someone else can comment on tapered versus straight threads.
  9. jlsddmar

    jlsddmar New Member

    Messages:
    13
    Location:
    Watertown, MA
    No, not that the nut would cut the threads, but that by cutting the pipe without establishing additional threads, not only do I now have less mating surface, but the taper starts as a wider OD. Especially since this is going to be behind the wall, I want to make sure that I'm not going to run into leaks
  10. dcelite

    dcelite Plumber

    Messages:
    132
    Location:
    Los Gatos, CA
    In twenty two years I've never had to make a special size nipple for a spout or hand shower. If the measurement falls in between the two sizes, you can either use the shorter nipple and apply more teflon tape or use the longer one and use only pipe dope. The connection will be holding running water only and not full static pressure.
  11. jlsddmar

    jlsddmar New Member

    Messages:
    13
    Location:
    Watertown, MA
    With the longer nipple, it's not an issue of tightness. It literally protrudes out too far from the wall, leaving the brass exposed. Even when I dry-fit the elbow, it doesn't come anywhere close to being flush against the wall.

    With the shorter nipple, the elbow comes off with a half-turn. I'm sure it can be made watertight, but it's still only on there by the very last of the threads.

    For those that are interested, www.fittingsandnipples.com is making the nipples in a custom size for me, for around $3.50 apiece ($10 shipping). I haven't received them yet, but for $30 (I bought 5), it's worth a shot as opposed to buying a threading die head, which I couldn't find for much less than $100 for brass/PVC.
Similar Threads: Issue hand
Forum Title Date
Shower & bathtub Forum & Blog Tub removed, bringing out new questions/issues Apr 27, 2014
Shower & bathtub Forum & Blog Moen 3570 Valve Issue Apr 14, 2014
Shower & bathtub Forum & Blog Installing a Linear Drain: Residential Building Magazine Kitchen & Bath Issue 2014 Apr 8, 2014
Shower & bathtub Forum & Blog Master Tiler or MasterCraft tiler, tile adhesion issues? Jan 31, 2014
Shower & bathtub Forum & Blog Bath tub waste outlet connection issue - need advice. Dec 29, 2013

Share This Page