Is it OK to cap off 1/2 of a double sink waste line?

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WorthFlorida

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I'm doing a complete kitchen remodeling and a single bowl will be replacing a double bowl sink on a kitchen island. I'll be cutting off the waste line connections and the supply lines (capping them off for the cabinets install). I plan to place a 2x4 under the supply lines and clamping them down for support. After the dry wall and cabinets are installed I'll glue cpvc to copper thread connections. I plan to cap off one of the two waste lines and use the other for the sink with a disposer. I'll have the dishwasher drain into the disposer connection

My first question is this OK? I'm not sure if having a dead pipe if it would eventually fill up with food waste!
My second question is: Is it allowed to place the dishwasher drain directly connected to the second waste line via a trap? I prefer the disposer connection since it keeps the grinding chamber of the dispose clean.

I do not like this type of vent but that's is the way the house was built and 99.9% of the homes in Florida are on concrete slabs. The saving grace is the old sink base cabinet was bumped out about 4 inches so there is plenty of pipe extending out of the framed wall to stub them off before the new cabinets are installed.
 

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JohnjH2o1

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Remove the existing T and replace it with a 2x1-1/2x1-1/2 sanitary T. Then pipe the AAV the same way that it is at the present time.



John
 
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WorthFlorida

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To remove the T would be very difficult. The drains are about 12" off the floor and the pipe out of the slab is pretty well contaminated with dried concrete. To cut it and add the fittings would be more difficult to make it a 14" drain height. I would like to leave the unused drain since we're having granite tops and the base cabinet will be 36", it allows in the future to add a double bowl sink should a single bowl not work out.
 

JohnjH2o1

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The cement your talking about can be removed very easily using sand cloth. Then use a coupling and a short section of pipe to put the T at the desired height. You can add a DBL sink at any time using a continuous waste as it should have been done in the first place.

John
 

hj

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drain

I would cut off the "illegal" cross and install a cleanout tee with a street sanitary tee for the sink drain, then put rest of that mishmash on top of it. You will probably NEVER take the single bowl out regardless of whether you decide it was a mistake or not. Even if you do go to a double bowl sink, 99.99+% of them only use a single drain opening. You can use conventional compression valves, or a better grade pushon than those Acor ones, for the water lines rather than installing adapters. He was not insulting the person asking the question, he was insulting the "hack" who installed that abortion in the first place.
 

JohnjH2o1

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I would cut off the "illegal" cross and install a cleanout tee with a street sanitary tee for the sink drain, then put rest of that mishmash on top of it. You will probably NEVER take the single bowl out regardless of whether you decide it was a mistake or not. Even if you do go to a double bowl sink, 99.99+% of them only use a single drain opening. You can use conventional compression valves, or a better grade pushon than those Acor ones, for the water lines rather than installing adapters. He was not insulting the person asking the question, he was insulting the "hack" who installed that abortion in the first place.

Your correct it was done by a hack. And just looking at the way it was done I can tell you who built the house. There is a so called builder down here that has all the licenses needed to hire these hacks and have them work for him on a peace work bases without them needing any type of license. They turn out some real night mere jobs. They are a state wide company. Anyone in the building trades down here know who they are. It helps by keeping use busy fixing there messes.

John
 

Tom Sawyer

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So having that flat vent before the elbow and the AAV is OK? Dohhhhhhhh...........
 

WorthFlorida

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This is my second home and it is in Orange County built in 2007 and my main residence is in Palm Beach County. I did the same in my Lake Worth home where I replace a double bowl with a single bowl sink and in both cases each bowl has its own trap. One home used a Y connection after the traps and this one is a T after the traps. The T looks correct since the arms do pitch down with a curve. It is not a 90 degree cross. I know a lot of trade people but no plumbers. It seems to me that in Florida a separate trap for each bowl is required. I can only assume that it past inspection.
 

WorthFlorida

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you ask for advice...you get it from experienced plumbers... and you disagree with their suggestions.........???.......... i would recommend the same as john

I'm not disagreeing with anyone, just trying to find the best solution for the single bowl sink and dishwasher drain. But I'm seeing the big picture now and I now know why the old cabinet configuration had the bump out. It was to allow room for the vent. This home is 170 miles from here and I just cannot go out and measure it up. Now I'm taking everyone's advice and cut out the double TEE.

Should I put in elbow from the main drain into the cabinet and between the elbow and the p-trap the vent with a regular TEE on this short horizontal run? I assume I have to get the vent as high as possible inside the cabinet. Don't forget I need to get the hot & cold valves and the facet/dishwasher tubing. It will get crowded in the 24" deep cabinet.

I appreciate all of the advice so far.
 

WorthFlorida

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I think I found my answer at the Oatey web site. I know that this is for a bathroom sink at 1 1/4".
oatey.jpg
 

hj

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That Oatey "thing" is marginally better IF you have the room for it. Two traps will ALWAYS pass inspection, they just are not needed. That fitting MAY be an approved one, but your picture makes it look like a sanitary cross, which most inspectors would have rejected, especially without a separate cleanout to give access to the drain line.
 

MikePlummer

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i'm not familiar with your code...ours states that when using an AAV it has to be above flood level rim and accessible, which usually end up with an access door somewhere on the wall, but mostly they are put in on non-inspected repair jobs as high as possible in the cabinet.
 

WorthFlorida

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I took all of your recommendations and here it is. I tee'd off inside the wall for the dishwasher hot water line instead of the silly way it was done.

IMG_0901.jpgIMG_0902.jpgIMG_0903.jpg
 
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