Is it easier to replace a garbage disposer or just reconnect plumbing?

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SusieQ

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My garbage disposer leaks from the bottom. I would rather not replace it. Is it fairly easy to re-connect the pipes? Or is it easier just to put a new disposer in? I have a double sink and a dishwasher. The only other thing I have under the sink is a filter going to the ice maker in the refrigerator. The hot water shut off under the sink doesn't shut all the way off, it drips a bit. Should I replace the shut off valve too?

I have done a little plumbing before, not much. I installed a new kitchen faucet, replaced a sink in the bathroom and replaced the guts of a couple of toilets. I did take some pictures, if you want to see what's going on under the sink.

Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I love your forum.

If you guys could help me with this, I would really appreciate it.
Susie
 

Reach4

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Fortunately you won't have to change the venting. I think you should put some effort to find a disposer that has the same physical connection points for the drain. For this I would identify what you have, and maybe ask the manufacturer what would be the direct drop-in replacement.

I am not a pro. Just an idea to make things easier.

I don't think a huge pipe wrench is the weapon of choice here.

You might try attaching that photo -- 800 pixels or less.
 

Dj2

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It would be a mistake to eliminate the GD.
Get a matching replacement (same manufacturer) and you'll be able to make the installation easier.
The unit will come with instructions and a list of tools you need.
Worse case: you'll have to hire a plumber. It will be money well spent.
 

SusieQ

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You guys are probably right. I guess it's easier just to put the same disposer in.

P6284844.JPG

Darn, and I really wanted to use my big wrench :)
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Is this the plate where the wires are? There's no switch. Should I put one in?
P6284865.JPG


This is where it was leaking. Water was coming out of the little plate next to the conduit.
P6284862.JPG
 
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Reach4

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That space looks a lot more accessible and flexible than most. I would think that if the distance from the to top to the outlet is pretty much the same, others would fit in easily too. Having the separate P-trap will give adjustability. The water seal on the P-trap looks a little deep (4 inch max is what I usually read), but it probably works great anyway.
TrapSealDepth-300x233.jpg

Not a pro.
 

hj

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1. It is an ISE disposer so get another on and just "snap" yours out and snap the new one in.
2. DO NOT replace the strainer in the sink.
3. Connect the wires to the new one just like the old one is.
4. Do not forget to remove the mmetal "plug" where the dishwasher connects
5. That is NOT a "big wrench" I could show you a picture of a "big wrench" Years ago I was on a job and when we came back Monday morning the lady asked if I could look at her plugged drain, because her husband had worked on it all weekend and could not take care of it. I took it apart and cleaned it out in about 45 minutes and as I was getting done he came into the house. He had rented a BIG wrench and was planning to finish the job that evening. The wrench was so big that it would not have fit into the cabinet where the drain pipes were.
 

Sluggo

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When you reconnect the wires, you need to get at least one additional fitting. It looks like the end of the armored cable that goes into the bottom of the disposer is improperly installed: there is no connector or bushing to protect the wiring. This can pose a shock hazard if the wire insulation wears through from vibration or is cut by the raw edge of the metal opening. I would also inspect the other end of the armored cable to see whether it is properly connected where it originates. There are several types of readily available fittings to deal with this; here is one:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Raco-1-2-in-REDI-LOC-Connector-for-MCI-AC-HCF-Cable-2700AJ-8/202056254
 

SusieQ

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1. It is an ISE disposer so get another on and just "snap" yours out and snap the new one in.
2. DO NOT replace the strainer in the sink.
3. Connect the wires to the new one just like the old one is.
4. Do not forget to remove the mmetal "plug" where the dishwasher connects
5. That is NOT a "big wrench" I could show you a picture of a "big wrench" Years ago I was on a job and when we came back Monday morning the lady asked if I could look at her plugged drain, because her husband had worked on it all weekend and could not take care of it. I took it apart and cleaned it out in about 45 minutes and as I was getting done he came into the house. He had rented a BIG wrench and was planning to finish the job that evening. The wrench was so big that it would not have fit into the cabinet where the drain pipes were.

Geez, HJ, way to bust a girl's chops. Here I was feeling all cool and awesome. ;) Now don't say a word about my chainsaw being wimpy, or I will really go to pieces! Your wrench is big and sexy. Anyways, back to business. :) I was thinking of not replacing the strainer, after I read the Insinkerator instructions. It looks like it will be quick and easy, too. Can I get a different model of Insinkerator, or do I need to get the same one?
 
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SusieQ

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When you reconnect the wires, you need to get at least one additional fitting. It looks like the end of the armored cable that goes into the bottom of the disposer is improperly installed: there is no connector or bushing to protect the wiring. This can pose a shock hazard if the wire insulation wears through from vibration or is cut by the raw edge of the metal opening. I would also inspect the other end of the armored cable to see whether it is properly connected where it originates. There are several types of readily available fittings to deal with this; here is one:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Raco-1-2-in-REDI-LOC-Connector-for-MCI-AC-HCF-Cable-2700AJ-8/202056254

So I would snap on that connector to the wires between the conduit and the disposer? I think the other end is done the way you are talking about.

plum.jpg
 

Dj2

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Besides the electrical that needs attention, is that a galvanized T in the picture? if it is, consider replacing it with copper.

About your tools: I like girls who like big tools.
 

hj

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Since the elbow and tee are both galvanized, and we cannot see what's behind the disposer, the whole system may be galvanized. Are you just trying to give her a reason to use that wrench? Besides, those fittings have nothing to do with changing the disposer. For all practical purposes all ISE disposers interchange.
 

SusieQ

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You guys are awesome! It does look like galvanized. The pipe that goes into the wall looks galvanized too.
plum.jpg

If I am going to start fixing things though, where do I start? This job I need a plumber for. I live in a condo. Some genius who installed new risers didn't replace the pipe from the riser to my kitchen. So my hot water doesn't have much pressure. The hot water shutoff valve is the old fashioned kind. It doesn't shut all the way off, so I guess it needs to be replaced. I think I could replace that shutoff valve.

shut off.JPG

And how's this for a girl that likes big tools? Well it's not very big, but it's cool anyways.

auger.jpg
 
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Dj2

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Where do you start?

You start by finding out who owns these pipes and who is responsible for fixing/replacing them: you or the HOA.

Galvanized are SO last century. Time for new pipes.
 

Sluggo

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SusieQ-
Yes...right at the end of the armored cable where it enters the hole on the bottom of the garbage disposal. These fittings come in different sizes, so just measure the diameter of the existing armored cable to make sure you get the right sized one.
 
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Susie,

Couple of things for you to think about before you tackle this yourself. If there's no switch anywhere for that disposer then the wires going into it are always hot. Find and shut off the circuit breaker before attempting to disconnect the wires from the unit. The cable looks to be 3/8" and connectors can be bought at the big box stores or a hardware store. Those units are heavy and working alone on ones back under a sink, they can be tricky to install because of the weight and body position. Be very careful that the old one doesn't drop onto you or your head when it becomes disconnected from the sink flange. Having someone there to help you muscle the old one off and new one on would be safer then going it alone. IMO, your best bet would have you hiring someone to do that job.
 
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hj

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The HOA is only responsible for items in the "common areas". meaning outside the "apartment". Anything inside is the owner's responsibility. Do YOU always replace galvanized pies when you see them? Sounds somewhat Draconian to me. The disposer is NOT running 24/7/365 so it DOES have a switch, probably on the wall above the countertop, therefore the wires are ONLY HOT when the switch is turned on. The NEXt time I have someone "help me" install a disposer, it will be the first time, if for no other reason that most cabinets do not have enough room for two people.
 
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SusieQ

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Once again you guys are awesome!

The on/off switch is on the wall. Sorry, I didn't explain it right. Some of the ones I looked at had plugs that went into outlets under the sink instead of hard wiring. If I can't lift the disposal without dropping it on my head. I figured I could put a box or something under it it. I'm only 5'2 but it still would get pretty cozy under there ;)

The diameter of the cable is 5/8" and the circumference is 2", so it sounds like I need a 5/8" connector. Also, it looks like I need wire nuts too? Should I replace the clamp on the dishwasher hose, or is it okay to use existing one?
 
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Dj2

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HJ,

Me and galvanized go back a long way. For the life of me, I will never know why galvanized was ever used in residential, and I love replacing it. Scrape it and send it to China to be melted down.
 
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