Iron filter sizing

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OldBat

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Came here a couple of years ago for advice on a clear water iron filter. Had my hopes of a tiny drinking water only system dashed:( Consensus was whole house chlorine injection, contact tank and some type of carbon filter to remove the oxidized iron and excess chlorine. Real life and an empty wallet intervened...

Just got my tax refund and it is going to happen this year! Is cleanwaterstore.com still a recommended source? They claim free shipping on orders over $100 though I know it is built in to the price.

Original thread is here,
https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/iron-pre-filter-for-ro.52504/

Some sizing info not included then,
11.51 seconds fill time.
2.2 Gallon draw down.
11.47 GPM
Total Fixture Units: 32
4 adults with an occasional 5th.

Current pressure tank will end up down stream of the filter but it is 23 years old and will probably need replacing in the near future. If I replace (and move) it now, can easily plumb every thing so all outside hose bibs except one will not be filtered, then add them later if my contact tank can handle the load. Seems to be a huge price jump going larger than 40 gallons. Can I get by with a single 40 gallon contact tank for a year or two then add a second if needed? Also seem to recall that larger tanks can not ship Fedex.
 

Reach4

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Current pressure tank will end up down stream of the filter but it is 23 years old and will probably need replacing in the near future.
You cannot do that. The pressure switch needs to be upstream of any filters. There needs to be a pressure tank at the pressure switch.
 

OldBat

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Pressure tank and pressure switch are together. Both inside rather than at the well, while this might not be normal it has worked for 23 years. Will keep them together if I move or replace the pressure tank. No extra space where it is currently located, plenty where I'm planing on putting the filter system. This would put both ahead of the filter and make it trivial to not include most hose bibs.
 

Bannerman

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The pressure tank and switch are commonly located inside, often in the basement. The issue Reach commented on is plumbing the filter before the pressure tank and switch as you stated in post #1:
Current pressure tank will end up down stream of the filter...

The filter needs to be located down stream of the tank and switch.
 

OldBat

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Was lead to believe it would work either way and that there were differing opinions on which is best. Only brought it up because of my idea of bypassing hose bibs which will require filters downstream.
 

Reach4

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The reason that the pressure switch needs to be before the filter is that filter can clog. Then the pump would be pumping continuously into a blocked path.
 

Bannerman

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Since the pressure tank maintains system pressure between pump cycles, placing a filter before the pressure tank would then result in backwards water flow to the filter during filter backwash, until the system pressure dropped low enough for the pump to kick in. Water flow to the filter should always properly occur in the correct direction as will occur when the pressure tank is located before the filter.

The other issue with the filter before the pressure switch is, any blockage through the filter could then cause the pump to continue running non-stop as the pressure switch would not sense an increase in system pressure. (posted just as Reach4 also posted)
 

OldBat

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Thanks. Went back to the old thread and he was just referring to where to inject the chlorine. I was remembering it as the whole filtration system.
 

Bannerman

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As chlorine can be damaging to pressure tank bladders, any chlorine injection should rightly occur after the pressure tank.

If the purpose for the chlorine injection is to oxidize ferrous iron, oxidation will start to occur at the point of injection, thereby increasing the risk of blockage from the injection point forward. If the injection point is before the pressure switch, again risk of the PS not sensing an increase in system pressure and the pump running continuously.
 
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